In The Greek House: The Story of a Painter’s Love Affair with the Island of Sifnos, author Christian Brechneff wistfully recounts his arrival on the charming island back in 1972. After a grueling 15-hour journey on a rusty ferry, he found himself in the early hours of the morning, having to navigate from the ferry to the shore using a fishing boat due to the lack of a proper dock. At that time, Sifnos was a simplified landscape with only a single road connecting the port of Kamares to the capital, Apollonia. Although the island has changed significantly since his first visit, it still retains much of its enchanting allure.
Sifnos, a delightful gem in the Cyclades, is located just two-and-a-half hours away from Athens via fast ferry. Its small size and relatively limited accommodations have helped shield it from the mass tourism that often overwhelms other destinations. This unique situation has allowed Sifnos to cultivate a culinary scene featuring a mix of excellent restaurants and traditional tavernas, drawing in gastrotourists eager to experience authentic Greek cuisine.
The culinary history of Sifnos is closely linked to chef Nikolaos Tselementes, who was born on the island in 1878. A pioneer in modernizing Greek food, Tselementes was heavily influenced by French cooking. His contributions, including the 1910 publication of Cooking Guide and the widely referenced Guide to Cooking and Pastry in 1930, have solidified his status as Greece’s most revered chef. To this day, the term "Tselemente" is often used in Greece to refer to any cookbook, indicative of his lasting influence.
The current culinary star of Sifnos is Giorgio Samoilis, who opened Omega 3 in Platys Gialos in 2013. By offering innovative dishes that draw from both tradition and modern influences, he has quickly gained recognition as one of the island’s premier dining establishments. Samoilis, who holds a PhD in protein biochemistry, has since expanded his culinary footprint with Cantina, tucked away on the cliffs of Seralia beach, and another restaurant, Pelicanos, located in Faros.
My recent five-night stay on Sifnos was highlighted by numerous visits to its distinctive bays, each showcasing its unique charm. Traveling during the second week of September allowed me to avoid the summer crowds while still enjoying a vibrant atmosphere before many establishments began to close for the season.
The culinary adventure on Sifnos is truly exceptional, inviting visitors to indulge in both its breathtaking landscapes and diverse gastronomy.
For more on Sifnos and its culinary exploration: