Beaujolais renouvelé
In her exploration of the Beaujolais wine region, Natasha Hughes, author of a new book dedicated to its wines, articulates the factors behind the renewed appreciation for this once-derided area. During a tasting at the renowned Château du Moulin-à-Vent in May 2022, Hughes tasted several vintages that showcased Beaujolais’ remarkable capacity for producing complex and age-worthy wines, contrary to its reputation for basic, inexpensive bottles.
Hughes reflects on the transition of Beaujolais from its economy driven by the boom of Beaujolais Nouveau, which saw the region suffer from financial struggles as interest waned. Over the years, the landscape of winemaking in Beaujolais evolved significantly, largely due to a new generation of winemakers who embraced modern techniques and broadened their perspectives through education and experiences gained in various global wine regions, including California, South Africa, and Australia.
This wave of change has led to an infusion of fresh ideas and practices among Beaujolais’ producers. Notably, many of the emerging winemakers have forged links beyond their region, cultivating a collaborative approach to viticulture that contrasts with the insularity of past generations. The increasing interest and investment, particularly from Burgundy, have further elevated Beaujolais’ profile; many prestigious producers from nearby regions have acquired properties in Beaujolais, contributing to a revitalization of the local industry.
Hughes draws parallels between Beaujolais and the Swartland region of South Africa, which, about 20 years ago, began to emerge on the global wine scene thanks to visionary young producers who recognized the potential of its vineyards. Likewise, Beaujolais houses a wealth of potential with its ancient bush vines and diverse geological profiles, having received UNESCO Global Geopark status in 2018.
Despite the promising developments and the growing market interest, challenges remain. The region’s total vineyard area continues to decline, and producers often struggle to make profits from their best cuvées. Nonetheless, Hughes is optimistic about the region’s future, noting that the evolving landscape of wine preferences may position Beaujolais to become a leading source for affordable yet elegant wines.
As Beaujolais carves out its niche in the market, Hughes emphasizes the region’s journey from humble beginnings to becoming a new hotspot for fine wine enthusiasts. Her book, The Wines of Beaujolais, now available in the UK, promises to further illuminate and celebrate the renaissance of this remarkable wine region.
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