Vin Santo, a historically significant wine from Tuscany, is experiencing a renaissance despite being less heralded than other dessert wines. This traditional sweet wine is made from partially dried grapes and boasts a rich heritage tied to the region. Its name is believed to have originated during a 1439 meeting of Catholic and Orthodox bishops in Florence, where a Tuscan wine was likened to the Greek word "Xantos."
The process of creating Vin Santo is intricate and demanding. There are four designated Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) regions for Vin Santo: Carmignano, Chianti (along with its eight sub-zones), Chianti Classico, and Montepulciano. The primary grape varieties utilized include Trebbiano and Malvasia Bianca, with specific blends varying by region. For example, the Occhio di Pernice style mandates at least 50% Sangiovese.
Harvested grapes are dried for a minimum of five months before pressing, and the resulting must is aged in small barrels called caratelli for at least three years. The aging process can differ widely among producers, with some opting for traditional methods that prioritize natural fermentation and others adopting modern techniques for more control over the winemaking process.
The debate regarding the use of a ‘madre’—a mother yeast culture passed down through generations—highlights varying philosophies on winemaking. Traditionalists argue for its importance in crafting unique flavors, while more modern winemakers suggest that omitting it can reduce risks associated with fermentation.
For instance, Simona Ruggeri Fabroni of Villa S. Anna relies on her family’s ancient madre, claiming its age enhances the wine’s quality. On the other hand, Beppe Rigoli acknowledges the risks of using madre and prefers fermenting without it to gain better control.
Temperature exposure during aging is another contentious point, with traditionalists favoring natural fluctuations and others opting for consistent cellar conditions. Such decisions ultimately influence the final character of the wine, leading to variations in taste and style.
Baudains’ exploration of over 100 Vin Santo wines revealed a wide range of styles across the four DOCs, indicating that production methods significantly impact quality more than terroir. Each producer’s experience and techniques contribute to the distinctive profiles of their Vin Santo, making it essential to understand these nuances to truly appreciate this storied dessert wine.
Recommendations:
To experience the unique offerings of Vin Santo, here’s a selection of recommended producers:
- Altesino
- Avignonesi
- Fattoria dei Barbi
- Tenuta di Capezzana