A new literary work titled On Tuscany: From Brunello to Bolgheri, Wine Tales from the Heart of Italy, compiled by Susan Keevil, has captured the essence of Tuscany, touching on its wine, culture, history, art, and gastronomy. Marc Millon highlights that Tuscany, much like the Italian Renaissance that began there, has undergone a fascinating transition from antiquated wine-making practices to innovative methods that have shaped today’s fine wine landscape.
This comprehensive collection integrates diverse voices from esteemed wine writers and authors, weaving together the past with contemporary insights to illustrate the evolution of Tuscan wine over millennia. It portrays a rich tapestry of characters—from aging winemaking families to newly established winegrowers—showcasing the region’s landscape transformations influenced by both nature and human endeavor.
Keevil opens the book with evocative reflections on the "wild winds of Tuscany" through the lens of Curzio Malaparte, emphasizing that understanding the wine of a region begins with its people and their stories. From there, the essays delve into Tuscany’s historical relationships with wine, dating back to the Etruscans and Romans, all the way through the Renaissance and the struggles post-World War II, when much of the region’s winemaking heritage was lost.
As the book unfolds, it discusses significant developments in Tuscan winemaking, particularly after the dissolution of the age-old sharecropping system known as mezzadria. The transformation of this land into the modern-day "Chiantishire" is rendered in striking detail, with contributors like Hugh Johnson reflecting candidly on the rustic nature of pre-modern wines.
Among the key essays is David Gleave’s account of the pivotal moment in 1966 when Marchese Piero Antinori redefined the way wine was created in Tuscany with his innovative approach that led to the birth of the Super-Tuscan. Following this, Federico Moccia describes the rise of Bolgheri as a new frontier for esteemed wines produced from international grape varieties.
Key topics also include the importance of grape varieties—a theme that resonates throughout the essays, highlighting Sangiovese and lesser-known whites like Vernaccia—and the personal stories of renowned winemakers and families, including a profound portrayal of the Frescobaldi dynasty.
Overall, this compilation serves as a portal into the heart of Tuscany’s winemaking heritage, providing not just a collection of essays, but an invitation to appreciate the intricate relationship between the land, its people, and their storied wines. Compiled with both passion and scholarly care, On Tuscany stands as an essential read for anyone enamored with this iconic Italian region.
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