Dariusz Galasiński, a linguist and professor at the University of Wroclaw in Poland, reflects on the cultural significance of wine, arguing that it serves as a bridge to understanding the society from which it originates.
Wine, he notes, is intertwined with culture, playing a role in social, religious, and institutional practices. However, it also provides a lens through which to explore regional identities and histories. For instance, the distinctions between dry and sweet Riesling in German culture raise questions about what these wines communicate. Similarly, how do Spanish wines from Rioja articulate the country’s multifaceted cultural landscape, especially considering their roots intertwined with Bordeaux winemakers?
He points out that while wineries may strive for a certain expression of terroir, the reality is complex. The notion of a wine representing a singular "sense of place" becomes problematic when examining various producers in regions like Chablis, where characteristics can vary widely among producers.
Galasiński posits that perhaps wine is less about representing culture and more about the winemaker’s intent. However, this intent can easily be muddied by shifting trends and vintages, making it hard to pinpoint an exact message that a particular wine conveys.
He raises an essential question: Does the average wine drinker care about the cultural narrative behind a bottle? Through his observations, he found that most casual drinkers simply appreciate the taste. The sheer enjoyment derived from wine often overshadows its cultural implications.
Ultimately, he concludes that the joy of wine lies not in the cultural messages it might convey but in the pleasure it brings. Instead of searching for deeper meanings, perhaps we should simply savor the diverse flavors and experiences each bottle offers.
In my glass this month
This month, Galasiński shares his discovery of Péter Setét’s Míves Borház, Istenhegy-Meggyes Dry Furmint, Tokaj, Hungary 2013. He describes it as breathtakingly complex and an exceptional value, highlighting the joy that exceptional wine can deliver, regardless of its cultural backstory.