Kornél Farkas, who began exploring Champagne at a young age, recently inquired about changes in the style of Dom Pérignon, particularly concerning the 2013 and 2015 vintages. He and his peers have observed a shift from the classic aromatic profile of Dom Pérignon to a more flowery and “feminine” character in these newer releases. Farkas has not yet tasted these vintages himself and sought expert insight.
Dom Pérignon, renowned as the first deluxe cuvée, has seen its style evolve through the contributions of seven notable chefs de caves over its history: Ernest Goubault, Charles Goubault, André Tournier, René Philipponnat, Dominique Foulon, Richard Geoffroy, and the current cellar master Vincent Chaperon.
The initial iteration of Dom Pérignon can be traced back to a unique Champagne produced in 1935, which was linked to Simon Brothers & Co.’s centenary celebration. This prompted Moët & Chandon to officially launch Dom Pérignon in the USA in 1936. The production methods of Dom Pérignon remained opaque until after WWII, when technological advancements began influencing its style.
Two of the most significant figures in shaping Dom Pérignon were Philipponnat and Geoffroy, who each held the position for over two decades. Philipponnat was pivotal in defining Dom Pérignon’s construction around four pillars: vintage, origin, varietal profile, and extended yeast-aging. He introduced temperature control, began using stainless steel in production, and was instrumental in establishing a consistent style through careful selection of grapes from prime vineyards.
Geoffroy, who succeeded Philipponnat, marked a shift towards increased vineyard engagement, expanding the core terroir and evolving the brand’s profile without discarding its legacy. His tenure saw successful vintages where he adeptly combined traditional wisdom with modern practices. Chaperon, who took over in 2018, promises a more elegant approach, with subtle shifts anticipated in future vintages.
The evolution of Dom Pérignon’s production includes significant milestones, such as the introduction of oxygen management, the launch of the Oenothèque range in 2000, and recent changes in cork technology aimed at ensuring consistency and quality. The analysis of vintages 2013 and 2015 indicates that while they may exhibit differences compared to earlier releases, they still align with the enduring essence of Dom Pérignon, thanks to longer post-disgorgement aging practices.
In summary, while Dom Pérignon has adapted over time, the latest releases maintain a continuity that respects its storied past. The brand continues to balance innovation with its revered traditions, assuring wine lovers of its enduring quality and identity.