This project, known as Place of Changing Winds, is an ambitious initiative led by Robert Walters, who has spent over 15 years as a wine buyer for Bibendum Wine Co. in Australia. His experiences with top growers across classic wine regions ignited a deep interest in the factors and practices that yield exceptional wines, ultimately inspiring him to put his knowledge into action.
After a lengthy search, Walters found a unique 33-hectare property in Bullengarook, located in the Macedon Ranges at an altitude of 500 meters on the southern foothills of Mt Macedon, surrounded by dense forest. The property features a cool climate with a significant diurnal temperature variation and rainfall ranging from 700 to 900 mm, alongside ancient, rocky soils made up of eroded quartz, sandstone, clay, and silt.
Between 2012 and 2018, Walters established one of the most impressive vineyards in the New World, planting between 12,000 and 33,000 vines per hectare—a considerably higher density compared to the typical 1,500 to 3,000 vines per hectare used in Australia and the 10,000 used in Burgundy. The vineyard is dedicated to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, boasting nine different clones, and is farmed organically, with some vines left ungrafted. For irrigation, Walters intends to rely solely on rainfall once the vines are well-established. The vineyard employs the innovative Poussard pruning system, which is gaining popularity in Europe for its ability to promote sap flow and reduce trunk diseases.
To manage weeds, the soil undergoes careful cultivation, a process Walters believes can significantly benefit soil health when done correctly. The manual labor required is substantial, with about three full-time staff dedicated to the vineyard, ensuring meticulous attention to the 3.1 hectares under vine.
As the vineyard matures, with most vines now reaching 12 years of age, there is hope for improved yields after a difficult few years marked by low production. The anticipated yield for 2025 is 12-14 tons, though previous years saw drastic reductions—just 6 tons in 2019 and 2021, and a mere 4 tons in 2024 due to poor flowering conditions.
The vineyard houses 45,000 vines and aims to achieve a target yield of 35 hectoliters per hectare, though current yields are around 20 hectoliters per hectare. Ideal bunch weight is 350 grams per vine, with current averages at 40-50 grams.
Walters also has a negociant wine business, having started making wines with the late Alain Graillot in Heathcote. The winemaking approach at Place of Changing Winds emphasizes minimal intervention, focusing on showcasing the terroir rather than the winemaking process. Utilizing Stockinger barrels, which are larger and impart less flavor than smaller French oaks, enhances the wine’s purity. While he appreciates whole bunch fermentation, Walters currently prefers destemming for the best quality expression.
The Wines
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Place of Changing Winds Between Two Mountains Pinot Noir 2023: This vintage, harvested in April during a late wet season, presents refined and fresh characteristics with notes of red cherry, almond, and a hint of leafy undertones. It strikes a balance between structure and elegance while promising further development. 96/100
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Place of Changing Winds Beyond The Forest Pinot Noir 2022: Sourced from a select north-facing slope, this wine is characterized by its intense aromas of wild strawberries, red cherries, and elegant floral details. It showcases a harmonious balance of sweet fruit and substantial structure akin to a nuanced Barolo style. 98/100
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Place of Changing Winds High Density Pinot Noir 2021: A result of high-density planting, this wine reveals vibrant cherry and berry notes with complex sappy undertones, reflecting its meticulous hand-harvesting and careful production. 96/100
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Place of Changing Winds Tradition Red 2022: A blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Pinot Noir, it boasts fragrant aromatics with a luxurious texture and a peppery finish, highlighting the rich interplay of fruit and spice. 95/100
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Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Syrah 2022: With fine black cherry fruit complemented by floral and garrigue notes, this cooler climate Syrah features a vivid mouthfeel and offers excellent tannin structure. 94/100
For more information about this unique wine project, visit Place of Changing Winds.