Pork cooked in milk may not grace the menus of Michelin-starred restaurants, primarily due to its unappealing appearance rather than its flavor. The dish typically presents a brownish cream or beige sauce that some describe as resembling “curdled milk,” evoking childhood memories of “Little Miss Muffet” and her curds and whey. Elizabeth David, a prominent figure in English culinary writing, introduced the dish to a wider audience with her recipe for maiale al latte in Italian Food (1954). Her description of the sauce highlights its grainy texture, which some see as nut-like clusters and others less flatteringly.
The dish has a nostalgic quality, reminiscent of scrambled eggs that have slightly caught at the bottom of the pan. Regardless of its looks, many believe both the pork, which becomes tender thanks to the milk’s lactic acid, and the sauce are delightfully flavorful. It can be enjoyed both hot and cold, with Elizabeth David suggesting it is especially good when chilled.
While David did not credit her recipe, the dish’s origins are likely attributed to Pellegrino Artusi’s influential cookbook from 1891. This variation of pork cooked in milk has spanned multiple countries and regions, especially Italy, where it’s often referred to as arista di maiale al latte. Various regions in Italy, including Veneto, Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, and Campania, lay claim to the recipe, illustrating its widespread appeal.
In France, the dish resonates particularly in the southwest. Paula Wolfert introduces her version, porc frais au lait, while noting its similarities to the Venetian take. Claudia Roden presents a Spanish variation in her book, indicating regional adaptation across borders.
Preparing pork cooked in milk is straightforward with minor variations. Essentially, pork loin or shoulder is browned (or sometimes not) and submerged in hot milk in a heavy-based pan to simmer for about one and a half to two hours until tender. Many recipes incorporate garlic and fresh herbs, frequently sage, along with the option of adding lemon rind for an aromatic twist.
The dish is surprisingly versatile when it comes to wine pairings. While some assume only white wines will complement it, a range of both whites and reds can work well, provided they don’t feature overly bright fruit or assertive acidity. Overly tannic wines are not ideal, as they might overpower the dish’s creamy sauce.
Opting for a medium-bodied wine with depth is key. For white wine pairings, look for oaked varieties such as white Bordeaux, northern Rhône Marsanne-Roussanne blends, or rich white Burgundies. Among red wines, mature Reservas from La Rioja Alta or a barrique-aged blend from Navarra have proven successful partners. For a classic Italian touch, consider softer reds like Montecucco or Morellino di Scansano from Tuscany.
For a detailed exploration of wine pairings and culinary traditions related to pork cooked in milk, further reading can be found here.