In a comprehensive review, Michael Schuster explores the rising profile of Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay, previously overshadowed by the region’s reputation for red wines. This narrative focuses on a collection compiled by Cameron Douglas MS, New Zealand’s first Master Sommelier, highlighting the quality of wines from the 2019 vintage.
Beginning in 2010, the Gimblett Gravels Association showcased a range of red wines from the Hawke’s Bay region. Fast forward to 2020, and the Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers Association released its inaugural Chardonnay collection, a selection highlighting various styles and pricing from NZ$25 to NZ$150. Schuster notes that Chardonnay currently occupies 21% of the vineyards in Hawke’s Bay, which ranks as New Zealand’s second-largest wine-producing region.
The 2019 vintage, marked by optimal growing conditions, has been hailed as one of the greatest in Hawke’s Bay history. The combination of a healthy harvest and ideal weather has produced grapes with fresh acidity and disease-free quality. Schuster encourages wine enthusiasts to explore the longevity of these wines, drawing parallels to Kumeu River Chardonnays that have gracefully aged in his cellar.
In discussing wine scoring, Schuster expresses skepticism about numerical ratings but acknowledges their utility in establishing a hierarchy. He references Burgundy’s quality classifications as a useful benchmark, positioning Hawke’s Bay wines within this context.
The review details various Hawke’s Bay Chardonnays, highlighting their quality, stylistic variety, and overall value. Notably, the Tony Bish Heartwood and Clearview Reserve stand out as exceptional values in a market where good Burgundy often costs twice as much.
Schuster describes the signature profile of Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay as possessing a juicy core of ripe fruit, similar to the richness of Puligny-Montrachet, yet retaining the freshness typical of the region. He adeptly contrasts the distinct characteristics of Hawke’s Bay wines with those from Marlborough and Kumeu River, emphasizing the stylistic diversity across New Zealand.
The tasting notes included showcase specific wines like the Clearview Reserve and the Tony Bish Heartwood, both of which exhibit harmonious balance and quality, comparable to premier cru Burgundy. These wines are expected to continue evolving in complexity and depth, proving to be excellent representatives of New Zealand’s Chardonnay capabilities.
As the popularity of Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay continues to grow, Schuster encourages wine lovers to explore these offerings, which provide delightful drinking experiences at fair prices compared to their Burgundy counterparts.