A Fine Wine Journey Through Marlborough, New Zealand
Ken Gargett embarks on a journey through Marlborough, New Zealand’s most renowned wine region. Highlighting its primary export, Sauvignon Blanc, he notes its significance to the country’s wine identity. The region produces three distinct types of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc:
- Bulk operations, which treat wine as a commodity.
- Idiosyncratic producers, crafting unique wines to elevate Sauvignon Blanc’s reputation.
- Innovative winemakers pursuing complex and intriguing variations of the traditional style.
Prominent producers like Astrolabe, Dog Point, and Cloudy Bay are reshaping perceptions of Marlborough’s wines beyond the standard offerings. The movement towards alternative styles stems from practices in the early 1980s, leading to modern experimentation in fermentation techniques and vineyard selections.
Gargett recalls an early encounter with Cloudy Bay’s founder, David Hohnen, who introduced Te Koko, a wine that sparked diverse reactions. Over the years, its evolution has led to a more terroir-focused expression.
In addition to Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough extensively plants Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, crucial varieties that deserve greater recognition. Over 80% of its vineyard area is dedicated to Sauvignon Blanc, dwarfing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which could otherwise capture more attention.
The region’s subregions—Southern Valleys, Awatere Valley, and Wairau Valley—are slowly gaining distinction as vineyards mature. However, the single Geographical Indication (GI) for the region poses challenges for producers eager to highlight these subregions.
To uphold Marlborough’s wine reputation, over 50 of its wineries formed the Appellation Marlborough Wine initiative in 2018. This organization aims to maintain high standards, requiring vineyards to be sustainable and wines to pass rigorous assessments. Recently, they’ve updated their standards, mandating specific ripeness levels for harvested grapes to ensure quality.
As part of evolving their image, Gargett reviews four notable Sauvignon Blancs:
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2023 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc: A classic representation with tropical fruit notes and balanced acidity. | 93
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2023 Blank Canvas Holdaway Vineyard: An emerging star featuring a brilliant mix of flavor and structure; ripe, concentrated, and aromatic. | 94
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2021 Greywacke Wild Sauvignon Blanc: A robust style with complexity and an array of flavors, showcasing the depth possible in Sauvignon. | 95
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2018 Dog Point Section 94: The pinnacle of Marlborough Sauvignon for its complexity; a single-vineyard wine with a rich, layered profile. | 96
In conclusion, Marlborough remains the epicenter of New World Sauvignon Blanc production. While they must navigate challenges related to appellation and grape recognition, the region’s capacity for producing exquisite wines is undeniable. New Zealand’s influence on the fine wine landscape is expected to grow, making it an essential consideration for collectors and enthusiasts alike.