The Dão region in Portugal, long celebrated for its robust red wines, is undergoing a remarkable transformation, with its white wines—particularly those made from the indigenous grape Encruzado—gaining significant recognition. Traditionally overshadowed by varietals like Port and the hearty reds of the Douro Valley, the potential of Dão’s whites is being unveiled, demonstrating the region’s diversity and quality.
Encruzado, recognized for its ability to produce complex, barrel-fermented wines, has become a star player in this evolution. Originating from the area’s unique terroir, this grape can deliver ageworthy white wines with a distinct character. During a recent tasting that featured 42 Dão white wines, at least 14 were pure Encruzado, leading tasters to praise its Burgundian qualities and mouthwatering acidity. Notable wineries, such as Caminhos Cruzados and Domínio de Açor, garnered top scores, affirming the grape’s prominent role in elevating Dão’s white wine reputation.
The richness of Dão wines extends beyond Encruzado. The region’s history of interplanting various grape varieties fosters diversity, with 22 permitted white grapes listed by the local viticultural commission. This includes well-respected varieties such as Bical and Maria Gomes, which can enhance blends with Encruzado.
Critics highlighted that Dão whites exhibit pronounced acidity paired with a sensual allure, a contrast to the more tannic reds of the area. Many participants noted the interplay of fruit, minerality, and oak that characterizes well-crafted wines. Several high-scoring wines revealed a mellow sophistication stemming from age, enhancing their appeal. Producers like Raríssimo purposefully delay the release of their wines, ensuring that they reach their peak before they hit the market.
The feedback from the tasting panel was overwhelmingly positive. Andrew Jefford remarked on the dramatic potential of Dão’s terroir and the exciting qualities of Encruzado, while Simon Field appreciated the individuality of the wines, which shone through in the less manipulated styles. The future looks bright for Dão whites, as the region’s winemakers continue to reclaim and celebrate their heritage, offering wine lovers a delightful journey through Portugal’s rich viticultural landscape.
For those interested in exploring Dão’s wines further, the following topics may provide added insight: