We often regard Chardonnay as a mainstay of Australia’s wine portfolio, but it may come as a surprise to learn that the first varietally labeled Chardonnay in the modern era was only released in 1971 with Tyrrell’s Vat 47 Chardonnay. The grape itself has been part of the Australian viticulture landscape since its importation by James Busby in 1832, initially planted in the Hunter Valley and later spreading to other regions like Mudgee. The oldest surviving Chardonnay vineyard, Tyrrell’s HVD, dates back to 1908, likely making it the oldest productive Chardonnay vineyard in the world.
Chardonnay’s evolution in Australia has also been influenced by the introduction of various clones. Prominent among them are the Penfolds P58 and Gingin clones, both introduced in the late 1950s, followed by the arrival of clones from California in the late 1960s. The 1980s brought even more diversity with newer Dijon clones being legally imported from France, with speculation that some may have been smuggled into the country as well.
A recent tasting demonstrated the current releases from some of Australia’s standout Chardonnays, examining them alongside older vintages to assess development over time. Many wines showcased vibrant growth, particularly when sealed under screwcaps, which are predominantly used for Australian Chardonnay. Unlike some other closures, these caps allow for slow development over time, raising the question of whether some wines might benefit from alternative closures like natural cork, despite cork’s previous taint issues.
Chardonnay remains one of Australia’s strongest wine categories, with numerous exceptional offerings. Below are notable wines sampled during the tasting:
Notable Australian Chardonnays
-
Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay, Margaret River
- 2023: 13.8% alcohol, a complex and detailed profile with bright citrus and pineapple, rated 96/100.
- 2018: 13.5% alcohol, powerful toast notes with good evolution, rated 96/100.
-
Howard Park Chardonnay, Margaret River
- 2024: 12.5% alcohol, lively with a creamy texture and intense citrus, rated 95/100.
- 2018: 13% alcohol, long-honeyed palate, rated 94/100.
-
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River
- 2020: 13.5% alcohol, precise and mineral with amazing purity, rated 96/100.
- 2012: 14% alcohol, developing finely with depth, rated 96/100.
-
Moss Wood Chardonnay, Margaret River
- 2023: 14% alcohol, complex with a creamy mouthfeel and powerful fruit, rated 95/100.
- 2017: 13.5% alcohol, rich and bold with lovely depth, rated 95/100.
-
Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Chardonnay, Yarra Valley
- 2024: 13.5% alcohol, bright and complex with great energy, rated 96/100.
- 2017: 13.5% alcohol, intensely citrus driven, rated 95/100.
-
Giaconda Estate Chardonnay, Beechworth
- 2022: 14% alcohol, powerful and bold with notable reduction and depth, rated 97/100.
- 2017: complex flavors with fine depth, rated 95/100.
This showcase of Australian Chardonnays not only highlights the variety and quality present within the category but also illustrates the potential of this grape in one of the world’s most important wine-producing nations.