With the rising trend of younger generations opting to remain sober, Harry Eyres reflects on how to entice them to appreciate the deeper values of wine. Eyres begins by recognizing the challenge posed by current health narratives, citing the World Health Organization’s severe warnings against alcohol consumption. The fine wine market faces difficulties as the younger demographic shows decreasing interest. One poll indicated that nearly 33% of 18- to 24-year-olds in the UK abstain from drinking entirely, a notable increase from 2011.
During a recent trip to Madrid, Eyres observed that despite the city’s festive atmosphere, many young people were opting for desserts over wine with their meals. A conversation with friends highlighted this shift, prompting Eyres to consider what arguments could persuade this generation to embrace wine as an enhancement to their culinary experiences.
Two philosophical approaches came to mind: the Dionysian, which celebrates the ecstatic experience of wine, and the Apollonian, which emphasizes intellectual appreciation. Referencing the thoughts of Spanish philosopher José Ortega y Gasset, Eyres contrasts ancient perceptions of wine with modern views, suggesting that wine was once seen as a vital force enriching life.
Eyres then contemplates whether conversations around wine’s cultural and aesthetic value might engage younger enthusiasts, though he wonders if such discussions could feel overly academic to them. The emotional and communal aspects of wine enjoyment resonate deeply with him, particularly in spaces like La Venencia, a long-standing Sherry bar in Madrid where connection and shared moments outweigh the pursuit of inebriation.
Ultimately, Eyres expresses his hope that despite rising sober trends, the appreciation for wine as a beautiful part of life—intertwined with culture, art, and connection—can still be cultivated among younger drinkers.