Pascal Chatonnet: The Gray Eminence of Wine
Margaret Rand interviews Pascal Chatonnet, a Bordelais consultant winemaker whose scientific approach revolutionized the understanding of wine faults. Chatonnet’s deep-rooted connection to St-Emilion dates back to the 16th century, where his family initially worked as coopers and stonemasons. His family previously owned Château Ausone, but his grandfather sold it after World War II. Today, Chatonnet manages several family estates, including châteaux Haut-Chaigneau and La Croix-Chaigneau.
Throughout his career, Chatonnet has significantly impacted the wine industry, particularly in identifying and resolving cork taint and Brettanomyces issues. He believes that the future of wine should cater to a younger audience, focusing on lower alcohol content and more freshness. During his youth, he studied viticulture and enology at Bordeaux University, even setting up a laboratory in his mother’s basement.
Chatonnet’s journey took a pivotal turn when, after completing his military service, he connected with a microbiology lab, where he further explored wine quality control. He published critical research on aging wine in barrels and began developing methodologies for analyzing volatile phenols.
In the early ’90s, he established Excell, focused on cork quality control, and provided solutions for the TCA problem plaguing wineries worldwide. Although he stepped away from lab work in 2023, his consulting career flourished, as he partnered with winemaker Michel Rolland and managed projects across South America, Canada, and the US.
The consultancy aspect of Chatonnet’s career grew as his passion for wine evolved. He emphasizes direct collaboration with clients over team-based approaches and has maintained relationships with numerous wineries for decades. However, Chatonnet faced personal changes with the passing of his parents, leading him to refocus on his family estate.
Today, he aims to elevate the reputation of his estates while preparing for the next generation, with his daughter already making strides in the industry. Chatonnet’s primary motivation remains to create better wines by understanding the intricate parameters of winemaking, embodying the role of an "éminence grise" in the background rather than seeking the spotlight.
Through his work, Chatonnet illustrates the unique approaches required for different wine regions and styles, ensuring that distinct characteristics shine through in every bottle. His blends showcase the essence of the grapes and terroir, continuously striving for excellence while remaining approachable in the industry.