Piedmont, primarily known for its red wines like Barolo and Barbaresco, is beginning to shine a light on its white offerings, particularly the grape Timorasso. This variety, once overshadowed by more productive grapes like Barbera and Cortese, is experiencing a renaissance in the Colli Tortonesi region, situated just east of Langhe.
Historically mentioned by Pietro de’ Crescenzi in the 14th century, Timorasso faced a steep decline in the 20th century, nearly disappearing as it was often blended away with Cortese wines due to its strict growing requirements. However, the late Walter Massa spearheaded its revival in the 1980s, and soon after, other producers like La Colombera started crafting premium Timorasso wines.
Currently, the Derthona DOC is gaining attention from established Langhe producers who see potential in Timorasso. Elena Penna, a member of the consorzio, signifies this shift, mentioning that as these producers enter the scene, they bring expertise in international distribution that could elevate Timorasso’s profile. The number of producers in the region has surged from a few to over a hundred in two decades, yet it still maintains a rural character, reminiscent of the Langhe 30-40 years ago.
New investments from prominent winemakers like Pio Cesare highlight the growing appeal of Timorasso. Known for its complexity and aging potential, Timorasso wines are being crafted simply, often without expensive oak treatments, to showcase their intrinsic qualities. These wines can be cellared for significant periods, reflecting a premium similar to the region’s beloved nebbiolo wines.
Timorasso’s aromatic profile, often likened to Riesling—especially due to its ability to develop “hydrocarbon” notes—adds to its appeal as a fine wine with both character and ageability. As climate change influences the grape’s growing conditions, Timorasso is stepping into the spotlight, transforming from a forgotten variety to a valued wine deserving a place alongside Piedmont’s most celebrated reds.