Elysé Brigandat, the chef de cave at Champagne Valentin Leflaive, brings a unique perspective to Champagne, balancing his roots in the Aube region with a deep admiration for Burgundy’s wines, especially Pinot Noir. Under the auspices of renowned producer Olivier Leflaive, who is now 80, Brigandat is tasked with developing a portfolio of single-site Champagnes, challenging traditional blending practices typically seen in the region.
Valentin Leflaive aims to approach Champagne with the same meticulous care found in Burgundy. The vineyards have been segmented to mirror Burgundy’s climats, offering an opportunity to showcase the distinct terroirs of Champagne. While large producers focus on volume and widespread blending, Leflaive’s strategy emphasizes individuality and expression from each patch of land. Currently, the winery, which is ten years old, transitions from a modest facility to a larger one while working with 20 partner growers, some adopting organic practices. Their commitment is to “less blending and more winemaking,” ensuring that each site’s characteristics shine through.
The range is divided into three tiers: Signature, Cru, and Les Lieux-Dits, with a total production exceeding 100,000 bottles. Each lieu-dit is carefully vinified, with only the characterful fruit reserved for these exclusive releases. The approach to winemaking is meticulous, favoring techniques like first pressings and controlled malolactic fermentation based on yearly conditions.
Brigandat highlights two distinct plots in Oger: Les Baudures, which yields fresher wines emphasizing stainless steel aging, and La Petite Haie, producing richer, oak-aged wines. The nuances between these sites demonstrate a Burgundian influence, focusing on capturing the essence of each designated area.
Tasting notes for the recently released wines showcase their unique characteristics:
- Cramant Les Bauves Blanc de Blancs: Floral elegance with generous structure; characterized by orchard fruit with a touch of exotic notes. | 94
- Oger La Petite Haie Blanc de Blancs: Elegant with hints of lemon and ginger, rich and serene. | 93
- Oger Les Baudures Blanc de Blancs: A slightly disjointed yet elegantly structured wine reflecting its higher vineyards. | 91
- Avize Les Roches Blanc de Blancs: Bright with energetic acidity and a well-integrated wood influence. | 94
- Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Les Basses Clefs Blanc de Blancs: Complex with white fruit, offering impressive length and salinity. | 93
- Verzenay Les Longues Raies Blanc de Noirs: The standout Pinot Noir offering, demonstrating ripe fruit and gentle spice. | 92
Brigandat acknowledges the challenge of translating the Leflaive family’s winemaking philosophy into Champagne while staying true to the region’s tradition. With a focus on transparency and authenticity, he is determined to carve out a niche for Valentin Leflaive that honors its heritage while charting a modern course for Champagne.