Back in February 2025, I attended the Pinot Noir 2025 conference in Christchurch, New Zealand. Among the many insightful presentations, one stood out: Nigel Greening of Felton Road delivered a compelling talk that addressed the significant challenges facing the wine industry today. His reflections are both honest and enlightening, calling for a reevaluation of how we perceive and engage with wine.
Greening pointed out that the wine industry is undergoing tumultuous changes, exacerbated by shifting consumer preferences and external pressures. He referenced conversations with vintners who fear that growing health concerns about alcohol consumption could decimate sales, especially among younger generations who increasingly opt for cocktails over traditional wines. The industry’s recent shifts, such as the plummeting sales of Bordeaux wines, illustrate a broader crisis: the once-vibrant market for fine wines now feels stagnant and fraught with reputational issues.
As Greening stated, the notion of "fine wine," historically seen as a symbol of prestige and exclusivity, is becoming increasingly associated with pretension. This exclusivity alienates potential consumers rather than welcoming them. He urged wine producers to focus on creating wines meant to be enjoyed upon release, rather than adhering to a model that equates value with age. His call to action was simple yet profound: we must prioritize taste and enjoyment over reputation and elitism.
Furthermore, he addressed the need for inclusivity in wine culture. Wine should be a communal experience, transcending the barriers often erected by the industry’s elitist narratives. Greening argued that, rather than fostering exclusivity, we should emphasize the social aspects of wine drinking—connections, conversations, and shared experiences.
There is a growing need for producers to adopt socially responsible practices that align with broader societal values. Greening highlighted that consumers increasingly seek brands that demonstrate environmental and ethical responsibility. This evolving consumer landscape requires producers, like those at Felton Road, to wear multiple hats—becoming certified in organic and biodynamic practices without being strictly defined by them.
Greening introduced the concept of "Living Wine," a term that embodies wines made with integrity and respect for the entire ecosystem. This perspective encourages a move away from rigid classifications and instead embraces flexibility, focusing on sustainable farming methods that enhance life rather than conforming to dogmatic approaches.
In summary, Greening’s insights advocate for a significant shift within the wine community: abandoning exclusivity in favor of inclusivity, creating wines that are accessible and enjoyable from the outset, and recognizing the importance of community. His vision is clear: wine should unite us, fostering social bonds and shared enjoyment in a world that increasingly feels divided.