Andrew Jefford explores the significance of skin-contact white wines, inspired by a bottle of Georgian qvevri wine. He reflects on the common practice of separating white grape juice from its protective skins, a process that has become so refined that we often forget the original essence of whole-grape wines.
Historically, great red wines have always utilized whole fruit during fermentation, while most white wines are produced without the skins. This trend raises an important question: where have the whole-grape white wines gone? In Georgia, however, the tradition of crafting white wines using entire berries in buried clay vessels known as qvevris has never been lost, an art that persists even in the face of historical tumult.
The making of these whole-grape white wines involves double-sorting indigenous grape varieties, which are then fer mented together in qvevris for weeks. Once fermentation concludes, the wine is carefully transferred to another qvevri for maturation with the remaining skins for several months. The end product is a light amber wine characterized by its aromatic complexity, clean and harmonious flavors, and a rich texture that evokes memories of its fruity origins.
Jefford posits that whole-grape whites, bearing amber hues, are experiencing a renaissance. He notes that this revival, spearheaded by avant-garde winemakers, allows wine lovers to rediscover the joys of these ancient wines. As drinkers acclimate to the flavors of whole-fruit wines, he anticipates a seamless integration of these offerings into the dining experience, enriching both culinary pleasure and digestive satisfaction. Ultimately, while skinless white wines have their place, the richness and satisfaction of whole-fruit wines reflect a deeper connection to the heritage of winemaking.
For more details, visit the original article on World of Fine Wine.