In the first installment of a weekly series, Simon Field MW explores the Sherry producer Bodegas Hidalgo in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, a town renowned for its unique wines and vibrant culture. The annual equestrian fiesta, known as the Carreras de Caballero, invites a celebration of local traditions and brings together the community, dispelling their worries about economic decline. During the festivities, Javier Hidalgo, a sixth-generation member of the Hidalgo family, takes part in the races while visitors indulge in the famous Manzanilla La Gitana.
Sanlúcar represents the northern tip of the Sherry Triangle, where the soil—primarily limestone known as albariza—is essential for viticulture. The vineyards, particularly in the Jerez Superior area, grow Palomino grapes, contributing significantly to the production of Sherry. With the establishment of a distinct Denominación de Origen (DO) for Manzanilla in 1964, Sanlúcar has carved out its identity within the Sherry production landscape. Despite economic challenges, bodegas like Hidalgo, which produces 600,000 bottles annually, continue to thrive, supported by the region’s boutique producers.
The Doñana National Park, surrounding the town, enriches the local ecosystem and influences the wine’s character through its unique microclimate. The presence of flora and fauna is a testament to the area’s natural beauty. The style of Sherry, particularly Manzanilla, benefits from the humidity and coastal breezes, which distinguish it from other types of Sherry produced in Jerez.
Hidalgo’s commitment to quality reflects its deep-rooted traditions and understanding of two terroirs: the vineyard and the bodega. The production process is meticulously designed around the environmental conditions, ensuring that the wines embody the unique characteristics of their origins. The atmospheric conditions within the winery, particularly the microclimate, are vital to developing the final product.
The winery also prides itself on an array of offerings, predominantly centered around Manzanilla, but including a premium selection with Amontillado, Cream, and Pedro Ximénez wines. Each wine carries notable history and stories, illustrated by the legacy of the seductive gypsy Carmen in 18th-century Málaga, who resonates deeply within the company’s narrative.
Despite the rich traditions, Sherry faces a struggle for recognition and appreciation in the modern market, often overshadowed by other wine categories. Nevertheless, companies like Hidalgo are focusing on quality and maintaining their heritage amidst evolving global tastes.
Recent years have confronted Sherry with a declining area under vine and a reduction in producers, yet the quest for quality persists. Manzanilla remains a leading choice for consumers, with Hidalgo catering to this preference while also exploring more complex varieties, setting a remarkable pedigree in the world of Sherry.
The annual races might not happen this year, leaving Javier waiting for another chance to win, but the heart of Sanlúcar continues to celebrate its wines as a crucial part of its identity, showcasing the potential and future of Sherry in a competitive market.