As climate change increasingly affects wine production, there’s a growing conversation about utilizing old-vine varieties to create better wines under new conditions. Historically, grape variety selection evolved with natural and human influences. Three centuries ago, winemakers often used a wide range of grapes, which diminished as understanding of varietals grew, particularly with the introduction of chaptalization in the late 18th century to combat low alcohol levels.
By the 1855 Classification in Bordeaux, grape varieties were recognized, but planting was still mixed. Now, wine production is heavily influenced by market fashions, leading to rigid adherence to certain varietals essential for defining a place’s character. The director of the Plaimont Cooperative noted, “Grape variety is a tool to express the terroir, but we have too often made it a brand.”
The climate crisis demands adaptability from wine producers. Many regions face elevated alcohol levels due to global warming and a preference for phenolic ripeness, which may compromise traditional balance. Producers are exploring resistant historical varieties or varieties that may not have thrived in cooler conditions but could perform well now.
For example, in southwest France, old grape varieties are being revitalized. The Plaimont cooperative has successfully revived rare grapes, showcasing unique characteristics like high acidity and lower alcohol levels. However, these varieties often lack the richness popular in today’s wines. The challenge remains whether these resurrected old varieties can effectively address the issues posed by climate change without compromising flavor.
Champagne, currently adapting better than most regions to climate change, faces its own challenges. Although it has been able to utilize old varietals, the limits on typical varietal blends raise questions about the future identity of Champagne wines. As producers become increasingly aware of the impact of high alcohol levels and diminished acidity, they might reach the limit of what is achievable within traditional constraints.
The New World’s wine regions, particularly Napa Valley, have focused intensely on single varietals, potentially limiting their flexibility in responding to climate challenges. Shifting to less-known grape varieties would involve considerable rebranding, unlike in regions like Bordeaux, where blending offers more opportunities.
Ultimately, the lesson from history during the phylloxera crisis is vital: wine producers must adopt an open mindset. Instead of clinging to past traditions, the goal should be to determine which grape varieties will produce the best wine in changing climates. The future of wine may hinge on embracing varieties suited for today’s environment, rather than a dogged adherence to historical practices that no longer serve the evolving industry.