Bordeaux has produced a remarkable series of vintages recently, with the 2020 vintage standing out. According to Andrew Jefford, it is a very good and sometimes great year, marking a continuation of the region’s luck following other successful years like 2015, 2016, 2018, and 2019. This period suggests that Bordeaux may be in a “Goldilocks zone” of climate, benefiting from thermal moments without excessive heat, making it an exciting time for wine enthusiasts.
Despite the quality, the market is showing signs of stagnation. Various factors contribute to this, including a saturation of high-quality wines, shifting trends, and a general decrease in interest in fine wine. Furthermore, the industry experiences challenges from changing consumer preferences, with a new focus on “freshness and precision” in wines that may create a barrier for traditional wine drinkers.
The 2020 vintage, while very good, stands apart from legendary years like 1982, 1989, 1990, 2000, or 2009. It bears closer resemblance to vintages from 1996, 2005, and 2010, exhibiting an aesthetic driven more by finesse than sheer power. A mix of weather extremes defined the growing season in 2020, leading to both concentration and complexity in the wines, albeit at the cost of some challenges for growers, especially those contending with mildew.
Elite producers generally fared better during this tumultuous year, while several lesser known châteaux struggled with ripeness and quality issues. This disparity has created a landscape where certain wines are thrilling and intellectually stimulating, while others may be found lacking due to their less robust nature.
For those who might have turned away from Bordeaux due to previous trends of excessive ripeness and oakiness, it’s worth revisiting the wines of 2020. The vintage promises a nuanced and complex experience that could reignite interest among those who appreciate sophistication over boldness.
Jefford highlights some top picks from the 2020 vintage, including:
- Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande – 99 points
- Château Palmer – 98 points
- Château Cheval Blanc – 97 points
- Château La Mission Haut-Brion – 97 points
- Château Montrose – 97 points
This assessment of Bordeaux’s current and future landscape signals a dynamic period in the region, opening doors for wine lovers to explore and rediscover its offerings.