My fascination with Montefalco began in 1990 during a wine competition in Italy, where I first encountered the Sagrantino grape, a local variety that seemed both formidable and intriguing. The event’s blend of wine tasting and a lingerie show led me to experience Sagrantino—its vigorous flavors and dense character was unlike anything I had tasted before. Over the years, I became determined to learn more about this mysterious grape.
Fast forward thirty years, and I finally returned to Montefalco, situated in the heart of Umbria, known for its extraordinary landscape and agricultural richness. The region has evolved significantly, with 85 wineries now operating and each producer refining their methods to enhance Sagrantino’s unique qualities.
Giampaolo Tabarrini, a prominent figure in the region, has developed a new vinification technique that emphasizes minimal intervention. His 2020 Il Bisbetico Domato showcases a previously unimagined lightness and grace in Sagrantino—a refreshing departure from the historically heavy wines this grape is known for. Additionally, I had the pleasure of tasting several of Tabarrini’s 2018 wines, including Colle alle Macchie and Campo alla Cerqua, which highlight the grape’s capacity for richness without overwhelming tannins.
Another notable winery, Bocale, led by Valentino Valentini, balances the grape’s innate power with approachability, evident in both his aged and younger vintages, created through meticulous harvesting and fermentation practices. Antonelli’s 2018 and 2019 offerings reflected a warm presence, skillfully crafted through long maturation processes in cask and concrete.
Similarly, Caprai has adapted to modern tastes, producing a 2020 Collepiano that is as gentle as the name implies. The renaissance of Montefalco’s wine scene is evident, as producers embrace creativity while respecting tradition.
In reflection, one can see parallels between Montefalco and Barolo in their vinification hurdles and the evolution of their wines toward a softer expression over time. A standout for me was the Rivetto Leon Barolo Riserva 2018, a vividly pleasurable wine demonstrating the journey both regions have taken toward refinement and complexity.
If you haven’t yet explored Montefalco’s offerings, now is the perfect time. The intense nature of Sagrantino has softened, inviting new experiences from this historical region.