My recent visit to Central Otago brought me to Rippon, where I spent time with Nick and Jo Mills. This picturesque vineyard, set on the shores of Wanaka Lake, is a significant player in the region’s viticulture history. Established in 1982 by Nick’s father, the vineyard initially featured 30 different varieties. Over the years, it has transitioned to focus mainly on Pinot Noir and Riesling, alongside some Sauvignon Blanc and Gamay—though the latter is a tale of its own.
During my time at Rippon, Nick shared a captivating detail about the vineyard’s roots. He spoke of Percy Sargood, his grandfather, who attended a lecture in 1895 by Romeo Bragato, a key figure in assessing New Zealand’s wine regions. Bragato had identified Central Otago as a region with great potential for viticulture. The familial connection here hints that this lecture might have sparked Nick’s grandfather’s interest in winemaking, influencing future generations.
The farming practices at Rippon are meticulous and biodynamic. Each morning during the summer, the team gathers at 7 AM, dedicating time to hand-hoe and keep the understory free of weeds—strengthening the sense of unity within the team.
Understanding the history of Rippon is essential—it sets the stage for the quality of wines produced today. The vineyard is celebrated for creating some of the most intriguing and focused wines in Central Otago. I had the pleasure of tasting several recent vintages that showcased the vineyard’s emphasis on texture, depth, and mineral extract rather than showy fruit characteristics. Nick, who has been at the helm since 2002, has cultivated an intimate understanding of the land, stating, “Shape, feel, and form is what matters, not fruit.”
Looking ahead to 2024, the prospects are exciting, and we also sampled the 2012 Tinkers Field, a wine that commemorates a century of land ownership and thirty years of winemaking, which was truly exquisite.
To cap off the day, a refreshing swim in the lake was followed by dinner with the Mills family, promising a complete ending to a delightful visit.
For more about Rippon and its history, check out my previous write-up here: Rippon Vineyard.