2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Beaune—Puligny-Montrachet and St-Aubin
Sarah Marsh MW shares her insights from the 2023 Burgundy vintage, focusing on the producers located in Puligny-Montrachet and St-Aubin.
Puligny-Montrachet: Jean Chartron
Tasting began with Anne-Laure Chartron, followed by Jean-Michel, who joined after resolving a tractor issue. Anne-Laure oversees the vineyards and described yields in 2023 as normal, a contrast to the lower yields of 2022, which followed strict pruning to protect the plants. She mentioned her shift toward using the Poussard method where possible, although the age of the vines presents challenges.
Conditions in 2023 were notably warm, with ample rain boosting the healthy fruit at harvest. The team began harvesting on September 1 for Crémant, continuing with still wines shortly after.
Jean-Michel’s team of pickers adjusted their schedule to start early due to the heat, completing harvests swiftly. They employed measures to limit oxidation, changing trailers every hour and ensuring a controlled environment.
Overall, the 2023 wines are praised for their homogeneity, especially in whites, with noted balance between acidity and fruit. Comparisons were made to previous excellent vintages, with wines described as charming and fresh.
Tasting Notes from Jean Chartron:
- Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes: Juicy; ripe citrus with refreshing acidity.
- Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Vieilles Vignes: Lime-citrus aroma; vibrant palate with a pithy fruit character.
- Rully Montmorin: Yellow peach aroma, rounded, with balancing acidity.
- Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos du Cailleret: Dense, rich, and powerful, standing out with a savory finish.
- Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru: Compact yet layered, intensely persistent and precise.
St-Aubin: Domaine Marc Colin et Fils
Tasting continued with Damien Colin’s offerings, sampled blind due to a scheduling conflict. He described the wines from the 2023 vintage as balanced and of exceptional quality.
St-Aubin Tasting Notes:
- St-Aubin Premier Cru En Montceau: Tightly structured with citrus notes, showing depth and concentration.
- Chassagne-Montrachet Margot: Rich, well-balanced, inviting with creamy fullness.
- Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Caillerets: Oaky, yet retains tension and intensity with a powerful finish.
As producers highlighted their impressions of the year, many found 2023 to be comparable to the exceptional vintages of 2005 and 2008, underscoring the ideal growing conditions and the resulting balance in their wines.
For further insights and detailed tasting notes from other regions, consider exploring the following: