Randall Grahm, a prominent figure in the California wine industry, is embarking on an ambitious venture at his Popelouchum estate in San Benito County, where he aims to create wines that embody a true sense of terroir. Known for his creative and communicative approach to winemaking, Grahm is now focusing on making authentic ‘European’ wines that reflect their geographical origins.
After selling his popular brands, Bonny Doon and others, Grahm felt it was finally time to pursue his dream of crafting a wine that truly represents a specific place. He found his desired property in San Benito County, choosing the name Popelouchum, derived from the Mutsun Indian language meaning “paradise.” The estate is rich in diverse soils, shaped by the unique geology of the area, including its proximity to the San Andreas Fault.
As he delves into the art of making wine, Grahm expresses a longing to understand how to create a vin de terroir, which led him to explore genetic diversity in grape cultivation. He proposes cultivating a range of genetically distinctive biotypes within a single vineyard, emphasizing soil expression over varietal characteristics. His experiments involve traditional varietals like Grenache and Cinsaut, as well as crosses of rare grape varieties to enhance the diversity of his wines.
Grahm’s quest combines a modern, scientific approach with traditional winemaking, seeking innovative methods that promote soil health and ecosystem vitality. He employs organic practices and biochar techniques to foster environmental sustainability in winemaking while enhancing the expression of his grapes.
Looking ahead, Grahm is attentive to the economics of running a unique vineyard, noting the importance of sharing the site’s distinctiveness with potential customers. He intends to establish a strong direct-to-consumer model, believing that once visitors experience the property and understand the nuances of the wines, they will appreciate the value behind them.
Overall, Grahm’s early years at Popelouchum highlight not only his unyielding passion for wine but also his dedication to reinventing how terroir can be conceptualized and expressed in California’s viticulture. His vision is to produce high-quality wines that resonate with the spirit of their location, working against the trend of overripe fruit-bomb wines prevalent in the New World market. The journey is just beginning, but the potential for Popelouchum to become a symbol of authentic terroir-driven winemaking is palpable.
For more about Californian wine, visit: California Wine.