Frédéric Rouzaud and Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon hosted a vertical tasting to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Champagne Louis Roederer’s Cristal Rosé, a project that has served as a testing ground for their winemaking. During this significant lunch, Frédéric expressed pride and emotion in honoring his father, Jean-Claude Rouzaud, who, at the age of 82, first began crafting Cristal Rosé in 1974. Jean-Claude, with a strong vision to enhance the dimensions of the wine, emphasized the importance of terroir in creating exceptional Champagne.
Roederer, with its substantial vineyard holdings of 242 hectares, embraces both hanging on to its roots as a négociant while embodying the soul of a grower. Jean-Baptiste highlighted that the Rosé is born from meticulously selected vineyard plots he describes as the "Musigny" of Champagne; regarding their unique characteristics, special tannic complexity, and saline qualities that contribute to the wine’s distinct profile.
The winemaking process here involved innovative techniques, including an infusion method departing from the traditional blending of red and white wines. This approach has yielded wines that are more integrated, elegant, and ethereal. Jean-Baptiste aims for a specific balance of ripeness and finesse, a pursuit he believes is exemplified through Cristal Rosé.
Interestingly, Jean-Baptiste shared insights about the aging and evolution of Cristal wines. Initially fruit-driven for the first ten years, the wines transition into highlighting the soil’s influence over time, leading to notable characters that emerge with age. He touched on how changes in processing methods, particularly at cooler temperatures for extraction, have greatly improved the quality of the wine.
The tasting showcased several vintages, including the 2013 vintage, which displayed an extraordinary blend of purity, freshness, and concentration, highlighted by notes of citrus and berries, scoring 96 points. The 2012 vintage, richer and creamier compared to its counterpart, earned the same score, showcasing complex layers of red fruit and minerals with a toasty finish.
Significant vintages such as 2008—characterized by its powerful intensity—and 1995—representing a different era of winemaking approach—further illustrated the evolution and history of Cristal Rosé, prompting discussions on how vineyard management techniques influence wine quality.
Looking back at hot vintages like 1989 and 1976, Jean-Baptiste reflected on the changing character of Champagne in response to climate, emphasizing the interplay of ripeness and acidity in creating wines with lasting appeal. Interestingly, he highlighted an early experiment in cold processing that inadvertently influenced future winemaking protocols.
Notably, the 2002 Vinotheque provided a glimpse into unique techniques employed for enhanced complexity, resulting in an intricate wine that balances vibrant fruit notes with a precise structure, yet again scoring 97 points.
The tasting not only honored the legacy of Cristal Rosé but also served as a reminder of the innovation and dedication that continue to propel Louis Roederer into new realms of winemaking excellence. As Jean-Baptiste eloquently stated, Cristal Rosé has moved from a hidden gem to a vital element in their pursuit of wine perfection, with the lessons learned along the way continuously shaping their philosophy of quality and craftsmanship.