Coonawarra, a renowned wine region in South Australia, has long been considered a pivotal area for viticulture, and Wynns is among the leading wineries there. This region has a unique terroir characterized by terra rossa soil over limestone, which was once a relatively obscure topic in Australian wine discussions. Recently, winemaker Sue Hodder shared insights into Wynns’ legacy and its significance in Coonawarra.
Coonawarra’s establishment as a critical wine area came about through strategic site selection. Unlike other famous regions like the Yarra and Barossa, which were initially planted close to urban centers, Coonawarra was chosen for its exceptional growing conditions. Pioneers like John Riddoch, influenced by academic input, recognized its potential and likened it to Bordeaux.
Following initial success, Coonawarra faced challenges after Riddoch’s passing in 1901. The subsequent decades saw stagnation until the Wynn family acquired property in 1951. The Wynns, Jewish Polish refugees, revitalized winemaking there, creating classic varietally labeled wines and commissioning noteworthy artwork for their labels.
Through the years, the 1960s are remembered for producing medium-bodied wines that aged gracefully, forming a stark contrast to the more concentrated styles sought in later decades. The 1990s marked another significant era; however, it was evident that vineyard management needed improvement, prompting a thorough rejuvenation project led by viticulture professor Alan Jenkins.
Wynns manages around 500 hectares, with 380 currently planted. The focus remains on robust varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, cultivated with a commitment to the unique terroir of Coonawarra. As Sue explains, the region’s historical growth phases have sparked legal discussions over boundary definitions, underscoring the ongoing quest to protect its distinctive characteristics.
Coonawarra’s soil diversity is notable, featuring the preference for terra rossa over black and transition soils, with each influencing the wine’s flavor and texture differently.
Climate considerations also play a role in winemaking, as Sue notes that Coonawarra’s cooler climate resembles Bordeaux, requiring irrigation to achieve phenolic ripeness in grapes. This extended growing period enhances the quality, especially when conditions favor an early harvest.
Despite geographical isolation leading some wineries to explore minimal pruning to address labor shortages, Wynns opted for a more traditional approach, exploring improvements that led to brighter, more expressive wines.
Sue’s understanding of ripeness has evolved, particularly as vineyard rejuvenation yielded brighter wines with better balance in acidity and tannins. She feels fortunate to conduct her winemaking in Coonawarra amid climate change challenges. Access to irrigation is another crucial factor that, while taken for granted, underscores the complexities of vineyard management.
Notable Wines from Wynns
-
Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
- Alcohol: 13.5%. Bold with sweet blackcurrant fruit and good structure. 96/100
-
Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
- Intense with dense blackcurrant and a spicy finish. 95/100
-
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz 2021
- Sweet cherry aromas with balanced acidity. 95/100
-
Wynns Coonawarra Estate ‘Black Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
- Fresh and vivid with black cherry fruit notes. 94/100
-
Wynns Coonawarra Estate ‘Black Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 1994
- Bright and linear with good focus and savory nuances. 93/100
Wynns exemplifies the rich potential of Coonawarra through a combination of historical appreciation, meticulous vineyard practices, and the recognition of terroir’s ongoing influence on wine quality. For more details about their wines, visit Wynns Coonawarra.