Bastard Hill is as mythical as it is real, hidden in the temperate rainforest of Gladysdale in the Upper Yarra Valley. To reach the vineyard, one must navigate through towering tree ferns and listen for the elusive lyrebird. At just below 1,300 feet (400 meters), this unique site features red basalt soils uncommon in the region. A high fence keeps out kangaroos and deer, while wombats burrow through with indifference.
Ray Guerin discovered the site in 1986, envisioning a vineyard where others saw none. Despite not being the initial choice for the plot—originally intended for his brother—Guerin proceeded to transform this challenging terrain, which included a north-facing slope littered with cherry trees and a steep southern side grazed by livestock.
A small group of wine enthusiasts purchased the property, aware that Moët & Chandon planned to open an Australian domaine. Guerin planted mostly Pinot Noir, with a bit of Chardonnay on the precarious slopes, and the vineyard was informally dubbed “Bastard Hill” by a team of vine-trainers after their complaints about the steep incline.
Over the years, ownership shifted multiple times, and the vineyard struggled under corporate management. Although the fruit produced at Bastard Hill was initially promising, it eventually faded into obscurity within a large winery’s portfolio. After years of neglect, it was put on the market in 2022.
Melanie Chester, head of winemaking and viticulture for Giant Steps, recognized the vineyard’s potential despite its challenges. Aiming to revitalize Bastard Hill, she approached Jackson Family Wines’ Barbara Banke, managing to secure the acquisition. Chester’s vision includes restoration and replanting, focusing on clonal diversity and sustainable farming practices.
Tasting the first Giant Steps wines from this site, particularly a Pinot Noir and a Chardonnay from a notably cold 2023 vintage, proved to be an emotional experience for Chester. She recognized the fragility of the wines while also sensing their undeniable strength and potential for growth.
They might have started in a difficult place, but the future looks promising for Bastard Hill under new stewardship.