I have several favorites. In the past, I would boast about trying anything that was sealed with a cork; nowadays, I’ve become somewhat more selective. Sparkling wines rank high on my list of comfort drinks – and not exclusively Champagne. England has emerged with numerous brands that provide the refreshment and lift I seek. Many often express that ‘it’s just as pricey as Champagne’. While that’s partly true, the same costs apply, especially for bottle fermentation and the associated handling. The primary variable here is the price of appropriate land; in Champagne, it’s at least €1m per hectare (Groupe Safer-SSP, 2023). In England, reports suggest it’s around £50,000.
As for other wines within my comfort zone? Probably Chardonnay offers the least disappointment; it seems to shine no matter the origin, from Auckland to Middlesex. Moreover, when Cabernet achieves a balance between fresh blackcurrant and overly ripe fig, it stands unrivaled as the premier choice for red wines. Additionally, palo cortado Sherry has become a staple in my home.
It’s not surprising that sparkling wine is the category of English wine that has successfully positioned itself as high quality first. Thus far, England’s vinous advancements have been rather top-heavy. Our still whites haven’t yet produced exemplary models, while our reds often struggle to achieve optimal ripeness and are viewed as somewhat insubstantial. However, the finest Essex Pinot Noir, particularly from the Danbury Ridge overlooking the Crouch valley, embodies everything one might desire – and is nearly as costly as good Burgundy. Staying local doesn’t save you much money.
Nevertheless, I empathize with the brave individuals who invest so much in overcoming history and the unpredictable English weather. Throughout the ages, it has been our (the British) discerning taste and craving that have guided the reputations and successes of numerous European wines. If anyone has the ability to identify exceptional wines and promising regions, it’s us. Now that we are also capable of producing them, the outlook is extraordinarily bright.