How an 18th-century classification inspired a new generation of Slovenian and Italian winemakers—and a charity auction.
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With the 2024 Grandi Vini della Contea per la Pace auction taking place this weekend, Jim Clarke narrates the story of the 18th-century vineyard classification of the “princely county” or “Contea” of Gorizia-Gradisca, and its inspiring significance for winemakers on both sides of the Italy-Slovenia border today.
Forty years prior, historian and journalist Stefano Cosma was immersed in research at the library of Villa Russiz, a property revered by enthusiasts of Italian wine and also a pivotal estate in the region’s winemaking heritage. In 1868, Julius Hector Ritter de Zahony bestowed the estate upon his daughter, Elvine, and her husband, Count Theodor Karl Leopold Anton de la Tour Voivrè, as a wedding gift. De la Tour, of French lineage, brought in an array of French grape varieties that would ultimately thrive in Friuli, becoming as integral to the region as Ribolla Gialla and Malvazia Istriana. However, Cosma unearthed something even more remarkable: a decree dated March 17, 1787, issued by Empress-Queen Maria Theresa of Austria, which categorized the wines from nearly two hundred local villages based on their quality.
The villages stretched across the noble county, or “Contea,” of Gorizia-Gradisca, named for its two key cities, Gorizia and Gradisca. The Empress’s categorization is thorough, or at least expansive, organizing the villages into nine levels. “Probably the real reason for the wine classification was purely fiscal,” explains Gianni Napolitano, the Technical Director at local producer Attems. “In areas suitable for quality wine, the prices were higher, leading to increased taxation. But what matters today is that this classification established a benchmark for quality.”
For several decades, the classification was seen as a historical curiosity, but it took an outsider to recognize its importance—specifically, another Frenchman. With his family heritage, Charles-Louis de Noüe always anticipated a future in the wine industry; his grandmother Jeanne and her brothers Vincent and Joseph-Régis had created Burgundy’s Domaine Leflaive in the 1950s. After marrying a Roman woman and spending time in the U.S., he relocated to Italy. His quest for exceptional white wine regions brought him to the Friulian border, where in 2019 he and a local winegrower, Anis Marincič, crafted the inaugural vintage of Domaine Vicomte de Noüe-Marincič.
As he familiarized himself with the region, Noüe observed that many of the finest grapes were being undervalued and disappearing into négociant blends. “For me, the concept was to highlight the worth of the terroir and prevent it from being diluted in a large blend, and it was straightforward, since we already understood where the premier crus were, thanks to the classification.”
The newly established venture concentrated on Chardonnay, a variety well-known to both associates, and the outcomes were quickly evident. “We uncovered the unique characteristics of each cru. The wine named Tejca from Vedrignano resembles Les Pucelles in Puligny-Montrachet quite closely. Groblja, located within the same village and facing east, has a character more akin to Meursault, presenting itself as premier cru—very mineral and robust, while Bigliana exhibits traits more like Meursault at the lower slope, which is rich in butter but very well-rounded.” Vedrignano, Groblja, and Bigliana are all classified as second cru under the Maria Theresa classification.
Although Noüe and Marincič were delighted with the wines, they recognized the necessity of collaborating with additional producers to promote the same ethos. They reached out to prominent wineries known for sourcing grapes from the classified vineyards in the highlighted villages, engaging producers such as Marjan Simcič, Attems, Villa Russiz, Kristancič, and Klet Brda. This effort culminated in the creation of the grandly titled “Association of Knights of the Cru Classification of the Empress-Queen Maria Theresa.” Today, this association boasts 30 members, many from the Slovenian wine region of Brda and the Italian DOC Collio—a single wine region separated by arbitrary national boundaries established in 1947. Some members are also located further in Isonzo, Aquileia, and Colli Orientali in Italy, as well as the Vipava Valley in Slovenia.
Attems, a founding member, produces two wines sourced from Cru locations. The wines Cicinis and Trebes both belong to the second cru classification and are known for their ponka (or “opoka” in Slovenian) soils—a distinctive layered marl and sandstone that Noüe compares to a millefeuille, effectively managing water by ensuring proper drainage while retaining moisture deeper down, accessible to the roots. The wines are single varietal, consisting of Sauvignon and Ribolla Gialla, respectively, with Attems also in the process of planting a third cru site dedicated to both Friulano and Malvasia Istriana.
On the Slovenian border, Marjan Simcič produces five wines designated as “cru,” encompassing both white and red varieties. The Ronc Zegla Cru is made from Sauvignon Vert—also known as Friulano, although Simcič prefers the French nomenclature over the Italian and the “Jakot” title that some producers adopted after the European Union prohibited them from using the term “tokaj.” The cru wines from Simcič typically derive from older vines, most aged over 40 years; notably, the Ronc Zegla Sauvignon Vert comes from vines that are 93 years old, considered the oldest in Brda.
The primary event organized by the Association is an auction, which is now in its third edition. “We aimed to replicate a successful model from Burgundy,” Noüe explains, referencing the Hospices de Beaune auction. He emphasizes the importance of quality, the significance of the crus, and recalls that Maria-Theresa recognized in 1787 that this region was optimal for winemaking for a reason.
Producers who participate contribute a barrel that can yield the fortunate winning bidder 300 bottles of wine. In the past two years, each barrel was auctioned as a single lot, but this year bidders have the option to bid on lots of 12 bottles, 48 bottles, 90 bottles, or 150 bottles, or even bid to acquire the whole barrel. Although some producers cultivate other varietals in their crus—such as the Attems ‘Cicinis,’ which is a Sauvignon—only single varietal wines are accepted for the auction. These are restricted to Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, Chardonnay, and Malvazia Istriana for white wines, while the reds include Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Refosco. The vineyards must adhere to organic or biodynamic practices, with a maximum yield limit set at 60 hl/ha. The wines carry labels indicating the cru name, its classification, and the varietal, but exclude any reference to the producer. This practice on the Italian side has resulted in the wines being declassified as they do not adhere to DOC regulations.
The upcoming auction is scheduled for October 25 and 26; a tasting event for this year’s auction wines was held in Vienna on October 15. A mere 17 barrels are available this year due to the low yields in 2022; apart from two designated as Third Cru and one as Fifth Cru, all others are classified as First or Second Cru. “‘One’ is akin to grand cru,” Noüe states, providing context within the Burgundian hierarchy, “while ‘Two’ equals premier cru, ‘Three’ relates to village wines. Four and five are comparable to regional Burgundy, and six to nine are still preferable to wines from Puglia.”
The proceeds from the auction will benefit the Monastery of Castagnevizza located in Nova Gorica, specifically funding the restoration of frescoes in the chapel that were damaged during an earthquake; the inaugural auction raised €62,400 for this initiative. The monastery is not only a significant tourist attraction in the region but also houses a historical connection to France; the last Bourbon king, Charles X, rests there after seeking refuge in Gorizia following his abdication in 1830.
The auction titled “Grandi Vini della Contea per la Pace” conveys a significant message of unity. Napolitano reflects on the tumultuous history of the area, remarking, “This region has faced division due to war numerous times,” referencing not only the conflicts of the twentieth century but also those from centuries past. He emphasizes the importance of viewing Collio and Brda as a unified vineyard or wine region encompassing two distinct cultures—Italian and Slovenian—collaborating harmoniously. This collaboration embodies a message of peace, which is highlighted in the term “Pace” within the title. “Currently, this sentiment is crucial for our region, throughout Europe, and across the globe.”