It’s curious that we rarely ponder questions about ethics in wine, but this perspective needs to shift. There are as many chances for human exploitation in wine production as there are in the cultivation of products like bananas and coffee—items that typically come with a Fairtrade label.
Given that grape harvests occur just once a year and the importance of picking them at the perfect moment, numerous wineries depend on seasonal labor (around 120,000 individuals flock to Champagne each harvest). Unfortunately, the often harsh treatment of these workers—seen in inadequate wages, excessive hours, and unsatisfactory living and working conditions—has not been thoroughly examined.
A 2021 Oxfam study focusing on the Italian wine sector revealed that 80% of workers in Puglia struggle to meet their basic needs due to their meager compensation. The report also highlighted the widespread illegal practice known as caporalato in Italy, where vulnerable migrants are manipulated by third-party contractors into accepting very low pay.
So, how can we ensure that once a bottle of wine reaches the shelves, every individual involved in its creation has been treated fairly and that their human rights have been respected? Currently, this is a challenging question to answer. While certain certifications like Equalitas and B Corp address social equity, many others do not.
Château Doisy Daëne in Sauternes, along with several other estates, has come together to establish their own labor subcontractor, allowing them to exercise greater control over the working conditions of their seasonal employees.
At the end of the day, wine is meant to be a source of pleasure, joy, and fun. However, as the CEO of the UK retailer The Wine Society shared with me, “wine can’t be joyful when you know in your head that someone might be suffering.” The more we, as consumers, begin to inquire about the origins and conditions of our wine, the greater the demand for transparency from retailers, importers, and producers will become.
Vines are particularly vulnerable to fungal diseases, which can result in the grapes, leaves, or trunks decaying. The most prevalent of these diseases include powdery mildew, downy mildew, and grey rot. To address these issues, vineyards often resort to spraying chemicals known as fungicides, which consist of copper and sulphur and are permissible under organic certification. Unfortunately, while they may help combat disease, these chemicals pose potential health risks to vineyard workers and ultimately disrupt the ecosystem by destroying beneficial fungi that are crucial to maintaining essential underground networks.
Benjamin Bridge, Brut, Nova Scotia, Canada NV
Score: 90
£25 The Sourcing Table
In my August feature on sustainability, I highlighted B Corp-certified Benjamin Bridge, emphasizing its commitment to people, which is both authentic and impactful. Give their impressive traditional-method sparkling a try, crafted from Chardonnay and the hybrid L’Acadie – it boasts citrus notes, a hint of smokiness, and remarkable complexity, truly exceeding expectations for the price. Drink 2024-2027 Alcohol 12%