A fascinating trio of wines has been unveiled to commemorate the 160th anniversary of a Champagne house that exudes the essence of a grower.
By Neil Beckett
Alfred Gratien stands out in numerous ways, particularly in one significant aspect. Among the myriad of houses and countless growers in Champagne, it is one of the rare houses that truly captures the spirit of a grower: a maison artisinale depuis 1864, as it accurately describes itself. While other houses may justifiably claim to represent “a living heritage” or “a living tradition,” benefiting from skills handed down through the ages, Alfred Gratien’s approach may have few equals. Since Gaston Jaeger took on the role in 1905, the house has had only four chefs de caves, spanning four consecutive generations of the same illustrious family, with the succession seamlessly moving from father to son.
The current cellar master, Nicolas—friendly, straightforward, and modest yet fiercely dedicated and passionate, boasts deep experience and remarkable talent—began his journey alongside his father Jean-Pierre at the tender age of 18 in 1990, continuing to work by his side for 17 years before stepping in as leader upon his father’s retirement in 2007.
The preservation and sharing of years of expertise has been essential, as the house aptly indicates, in three important aspects that it highlighted during a two-day visit in June this year, coinciding with its 160th anniversary celebrations.
The first aspect is a comprehensive understanding of the terroir and viticulture. The wines derive 62% from grands and premiers cru, featuring Chardonnay from regions such as Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Vertus, Pinot Noir from Bouzy and Ludes, and Meunier from Damery, Leuvrigny, and Reuil-sur-Marne. Although the house owns merely 1.63ha of grand and premier cru vines in the Côte des Blancs, it sources fruit from approximately 50 to 60 growers with whom it maintains close, longstanding partnerships, covering around 50ha, all within a 25-mile radius. Nicolas himself is a grower, with family plots in Le Mesnil and Reuil—“I grew up among the vines”—instilling in him a deep respect for skilled vignerons and viticulture. “Good wine comes from good grapes,” he confidently maintains. He has convinced around half of the growers he collaborates with to allow him to determine harvest dates, urging all of them towards sustainable viticulture practices, offering a premium for grapes certified as haute valeur environnementale, and even more for those recognized as viticulture durable en Champagne.
The second crucial area where shared knowledge and experience play a key role is the time-honored tradition of performing all vinification in wood. Taking only the cuve, and not the taille, Nicolas ferments and ages all wines in 225-liter oak barriques, with roughly 1,000 in use. For decades, these barrels were exclusively used ones from La Chablisienne; however, in the last two years, 10% have been new, sourced from two coopers—Sylvain and Tonnellerie de Champagne—chosen from three tested options. Despite this, the average age of the barrels remains about 17 years. The fermentation process has become more steady in the past decade, Nicolas says, due to the ability to regulate the ambient temperature of the cellar, which now maintains a temperature range of 57–59°F. The malolactic fermentation is consistently inhibited with sulfites, and Nicolas notes that the acidity may be slightly elevated due to the sulfuric acid utilized to ensure the barrels are kept impeccably clean, even though they undergo thorough rinsing and steam cleaning shortly before harvest. Each barrel is meticulously inspected before filling, and any that display even the slightest hint of a mushroom scent are discarded from use.
The wine matures for an additional six months in barrel on its lees, although bâtonnage is not practiced since Nicolas aims to maintain its lightness and does not wish to introduce unnecessary richness. In the past, before humidity control (now at 86%), up to 100hl a year were lost to evaporation, known as the angels’ share. These benevolent spirits are still honored on each barrel and during anniversary cuvées. This dedication to barrel aging is indeed costly and demanding, yet for Nicolas, the meticulous effort proves worthwhile. He asserts that it’s not merely “wood for wood’s sake”; rather, it should never overpower the wine but should serve to enhance it—bringing greater complexity from fermentation, more roundness from maturation, and an increased sense of “emotion” in the wine. His commitment to wood is reflected in closures; all of the Vintage wines and the prestigious cuvée Paradis are sealed with cork instead of crown caps during their secondary fermentation and the extensive time they spend on lees.
The third domain where Nicolas draws inspiration from his ancestral predecessors—and thereby gazes further than they ever could—is the craft of blending. (This is not to diminish their ability to produce exceptional wines; Nicolas fondly remembers a magical bottle of 1955 he shared with his father one Christmas Eve and graciously opened a magnificent bottle of the 1964 for us—aging much more gracefully than I have and standing as a poignant testament to the quality and longevity of wines that were crafted over half a century ago.)
The hors classe Alfred Gratien Brut (50% Chardonnay, supplemented by Pinot Noir and Meunier, which is even better from magnum, with the current release based on the 2019 vintage) consistently contains a high level of reserve wine (approximately 60%), sourced from a perpetual reserve established in 1990 and continued through what Nicolas refers to as “regeneration” instead of “solera.” Each year, the entire non-vintage blend is incorporated as vin clair into the non-vintage reserve, which is aged on its lees in temperature-controlled stainless-steel vats before 70% is bottled and 30% is carried forward. An innovative approach introduced by Nicolas in 2007 is the Paradis “solera,” which he enriches with each new vintage of this remarkable prestige cuvée, serving two significant purposes. One is as the liqueur d’expédition for the entire range, drawing 10–15% annually; the other is for the two exclusive cuvées released so far—the 565 (4,000 bottles) and 595 (300 magnums), where the initial “5” represents the five vintages of Paradis within the blend (2007–2011), the “6” and “9” correspond to the years spent sur lattes in the bottles and magnums respectively, and the second “5” signifies the five senses engaged by the wines. All bottles have sold, but some magnums—along with the three Vintages from the late-disgorged Memory Collection (1997, 1998, 1999), the newly introduced anniversary cuvées, and remaining selections—are still available for purchase directly from the charming boutique in Epernay, where a variety of tastings and tours are offered throughout the year.
Nicolas’s success is even more commendable given the increased production required by Henkell (rising from 100,000 bottles in 2000 to 300,000 today)—all the while maintaining his philosophy and commitment to quality. As the marketing has evolved from a subtle whisper to a clear tone, he, along with his family and the “Champagne wines” (as he refers to their gastronomic potential), is finally beginning to garner the recognition they rightfully deserve.
Over lunch at Le Bristol, Paris; June 19, 2024
Alfred Gratien 2008 160th Anniversary Limited Edition (bottle)
(56% Chardonnay, 23% Meunier, 21% Pinot Noir; disgorged May 14, 2024; dosage 8g/l)
The wine exhibits a delicate pale gold hue, adorned with a fine and persistent mousse. The initial scent is captivating—elegant, fresh, focused, and intense, showcasing light notes of acacia, brioche, and savory umami that hint at its age and extended aging on lees. As it breathes, the aromas evolve into more marine and mineral tones, ultimately highlighted by the faintest hints of champignons de Paris. On the palate, it reveals great core density and layered richness, reminiscent of a fine Montrachet, yet it manages to be flowing, light, and graceful. This is complemented by excellent persistence and brilliance characteristic of the finest wines from this remarkable vintage.
This remarkable wine pairs wonderfully with Brie embellished with dried, diced apricots, figs, hazelnuts, and pistachios. Only 1,600 bottles have been produced. | 96
Alfred Gratien 2008 160th Anniversary Limited Edition (Jéroboam)
(56% Chardonnay, 23% Meunier, 21% Pinot Noir; disgorged May 17, 2024; dosage 8g/l)
With a palest gold hue that carries a subtle hint of lime green along the edge, the wine showcases an exceptionally fine mousse. It presents an even more delicate finesse and freshness in aroma than the bottle, with charming, momentary notes of café au lait and fleurs blanches, including exotic gardenia. This is complemented by sweet herbs, light meringue, patisserie, and a delightful smoky breeze. While it possesses slightly less layered richness, it exhibits an even greater aérien delicatesse and smooth glide reminiscent of fine Chevalier-Montrachet. The acidity is harmoniously integrated and enveloped, with the faintest hint of amertume noble adding a triumphant touch to the exhilarating finish that lifts high with elegance. Already a sublime experience, this wine promises to evolve into something even more remarkable over the next couple of decades. Interestingly, dessert—a lightly peach-scented vacherin—proved to be the ideal accompaniment. This release is limited to a mere 160 Jéroboams. | 98
Alfred Gratien 2008 Paradis Rosé
Limited Edition The Angels’ Share
(63% Chardonnay, 37% Pinot Noir; disgorged February 2024; dosage 8g/l)
The wine boasts an enticing pale copper-salmon hue complemented by a persistent, ultra-fine mousse. Its fragrance captivates with freshness, detail, complexity, and precision, exhibiting notes of petits fruits rouges (from the 12% of still red wine sourced from Bouzy) and épices doux, which gracefully blossom over time in the glass into the softest rosy aroma. The core’s density is intricately woven, enveloped in an exquisitely refined silken texture, bringing an appetizing touch that doesn’t overwhelm, thanks to the phenolics adding another layer and extending the magnificent finish. This wine is well-suited to accompany suprême de volaille de Bresse rôti, bacon, spring onions, petits pois, and chicken jus infused with cinnamon. | 97