Yiannis Karakasis MW’s wine festival in Santorini has set new benchmarks for such events.
By Neil Beckett
The Santorini Vedema festival, first launched in 2022, just celebrated its second year on September 29-30, 2023. Hosted at the Katikies Garden in Fira, this event is the perfect showcase of Santorini’s unique wines, thanks to the efforts of Athens-based Greek Master of Wine Yiannis Karakasis. Aside from organizing this annual gathering, Karakasis has authored The Wines of Santorini and leads the 50 Great Greek Wines initiative.
The event’s appeal is enhanced by its setting in a luxurious hotel, originally a monastery, which provides not just top-tier accommodations but also a tranquil atmosphere with stunning views of the island’s renowned caldera. The culinary offerings at the Selene restaurant, run by Michelin-starred chef Ettore Botrini, and the hospitable staff add to the event’s allure. The festival is particularly effective because it encapsulates both focus and diversity, taking place in a single, charming venue yet encompassing almost all of the island’s 21 producers. In 2022, 17 producers participated in the walk-around tasting; in 2023, the number rose to 19. This union in one place, often for the first time despite professional rivalries, allows attendees to deeply explore the wine styles and gain a deep understanding of contemporary wine issues and the distinctive character and diversity of Santorini’s wines.
On the initial day of the 2023 gathering, attendees experienced two masterclasses with a sensible pause in between. The first session featured Karakasis accompanied by Mark Andrew MW—an authority who co-founded Noble Rot magazine and three associated London restaurants. Andrew’s thesis centered on Santorini wines, a fitting expertise for the blind tasting which juxtaposed five Assyrtiko wines against five white Burgundies. Previously, a similar comparison was made with Riesling, which even the esteemed Jancis Robinson MW found challenging, as distinguishing the wines proved formidable.
There were striking resemblances between the tastes of Assyrtikos and the Burgundies—notably their pronounced acidity and mineral essence, though each bore distinctive types of “minerality”: “chalky” for Burgundy, versus “marine,” “salty,” or “smoky” for Santorini. Deliberations by Karakasis and Andrew illuminated some differences, for instance, Chardonnay’s compatibility with new oak as opposed to Assyrtiko’s preference for stainless steel or mature oak barrels. Notably, the higher alcohol content paired with high acidity in Santorini wines was highlighted as one of Assyrtiko’s desirable traits, despite the influence of climate change on the robustness of today’s white Burgundy.
Equally remarkable was the comparable high quality of the Santorini selections. Karakasis showcased exceptional cuvées from leading producers including Estate Argyros Cuvée Monsigniori, Gaia Wild Ferment Assyrtiko, and Artemis Karamelegos Nykteri. Andrew matched these with noteworthy selections from Chablis, Côte de Beaune, and the Mâconnais, such as Bessin-Tremblay Chablis Grand Cru Valmur, Domaine Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Mazures, and Domaine Chavy-Chouet Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères. Despite the rising cost and demand for premier Assyrtiko wines from Santorini, they displayed potentially better value, maintaining a competitive edge in pricing and quality.
The second masterclass, equally engrossing and led by Karakasis and Andrew again, introduced two guest speakers: Paris Sigalas of Oeno P and Petros Vamvakousis of Venetsanos. It focused on Santorini Nykteri: Past, Present, and Future. Nykteri, derived from the Greek “nykta” meaning “night,” traditionally involved pressing the very ripe grapes harvested on the same day in late September at night. This wine-making process produced a distinct oxidative style using large, old oak vats partially filled and sealed, with some wines developing flor, varying sugar levels, and high alcohol content, sometimes up to 16%. Nykteri was described by Karakasis as more “aristocratic” than Brousko wines, potentially reminding some of Sherry, though this comparison was slightly dismissed by Andrew who believed Jura wines were a closer match.
Karakasis pointed out that Nykteri now faces a confusing “present” due to vague legislative definitions, allowing too many wines to qualify under this appellation due to the minimum alcohol and barrel-aging requirements. Andrew described the category as being in a “no man’s land” with little recognition, with the 16 tasted wines showing significant taste variances. Remarkably, the Akulumbo 2021 from Oeno P, which avoided oak aging and utilized “amphorae” instead, impressed with its elegance and subtleness. As for the “future,” Andrew proposed either tightening the PDO Nykteri requirements for all oak-aged Assyrtiko or defining and rigorously adhering to traditional Nykteri methods, though he recognized the latter as more niche yet more thrilling. Sigalas hoped for a collaborative effort to establish stringent guidelines, potentially including variations in residual sugar, with his Sigalas Nychteri 2020 featuring 6-8g/l residual sugar.
Conversations with Karakasis about Santorini’s future delved into the challenges and strengths of the region. He highlighted the precarious balance between the numerous small grape growers and few producers and the ongoing issues of climate change, aging vines, and the debate over vine training methods. The need for careful sulfur-dioxide management in winemaking was also discussed as vital to maintaining the wine’s expressive quality. Despite challenges, Karakasis remains committed to innovating and preserving the unique traditions of Santorini viticulture.
The festival was filled with joy and celebration, particularly during the nightly grand dinners hosted at Selene restaurant, nestled in a picturesque courtyard. Guests experienced lively and eager conversations, complemented by mild live music which maintained a relaxed ambiance.
The opening dinner, titled “Gastronomic Journey,” featured a collaborative effort from chefs across Katikies restaurants. The twelve-course meal ranged from “Landscapes of Pumice” with smoked eel to “Matrix” with crayfish and caviar, and a dish named “Lamb” with milk-fed lamb as the highlight. The evening began with a sparkling glass of Assyrtiko by Santo, followed by a series of carefully chosen Santorini wines by wine consultant Karakasis. Although two featured wines were made from Assyrtiko, including the outstanding Oeno P Tria Ampelia Pithari 6 2021, Karakasis showcased other local varieties as well, emphasizing the diversity of the region’s grapes. Other notable wines included the Argyros Athiri 2022, the light Gavalas Voudomato 2022 rosé, and the Venetsanos Mandilaria 2019—a classically structured and subtly robust red.
The second night of the festival featured a “four-hands dinner” titled Selene Welcomes Etrusco, where chefs Ettore Botrini and Nikos Billis impressed with dishes like “God Loves Caviar” and “Columbina before the Wedding Night.” Despite showcasing wines from different regions like Krug Grande Cuvée and Marquis d’Angerville Volnay Premier Cru Fremiet 2017, two local wines stood out: Artemis Karamolegos Ftelos Assyrtiko 2020 and Venetsanos Vinsanto 12 Years Old—a perfect match for the culinary offerings.
The 2024 edition of the festival is set for September 20-21, promising a similar structure with fresh details. The program will include masterclasses on volcanic wines and divine drops of Vinsanto, Vin Santo & Tokaji, led by Yiannis Karakasis & Wojciech Bonkowski MW, along with two more promising dinners, including one dedicated to Gaja wines. All wine enthusiasts are encouraged to attend.