A new entry in a category that has become one of fortified wine’s biggest success stories.
Richard Mayson reports on the Symington family’s latest addition to the Graham’s stable, a 50 Year Old Tawny Port which completes the shippers ladder of aged Tawnies.
Among fortified wines, Tawny Port has been one of the great success stories, with sales having increased by 70% over the past decade. The category has expanded, too, with the 50 Year Old category having been added to the Tawny ladder in 2022. This has put pressure on some shippers without good, well-cared-for stocks to buy up more wine. But Graham’s, with 200 years of winemaking history (over half a century under Symington family tutelage) has the heritage and is backed by the stocks to produce some flawless Tawny Ports. It now has a complete ladder of Tawnies, starting with The Tawny (a Reserve), extending through 10, 20, 30, 40, and culminating in a newly launched 50 year old. Head winemaker Charles Symington was on hand to shed background on the newly launched wine at a dinner in London earlier this year.
He asserts that the character and consistency of a good Tawny relies on three key elements: cooperage, aging, and blending. When it comes to cooperage, the Symington family (who also own Cockburn, Dow, and Warre) employ seven coopers to maintain their substantial stocks of wooden casks and vats. Aging takes place in “lodge pipes,” casks around 600 liters in capacity, stored in cool Port lodges with relatively high levels of humidity at Vila Nova de Gaia. During this period, it is important that the wines are regularly monitored to ensure that their evolution is consistent and that the wine in question is capable of prolonged aging in cask. Any wine that doesn’t have the persistence will be blended and bottled off earlier in the Tawny ladder.
For 50 years, the blending at Graham has been the responsibility of Peter Symington (now aged 80), followed by his son Charles. This deep family involvement ensures consistency in the wines. Two components of the 50-Year-Old blend have particular significance for the family. The first is a wine from 1969, originally designated “CAS Reserve,” which was set aside by Peter Symington to mark the birth of his son. The second is a parcel or lote from 1970 and 1973, which was blended in 1982. Over half of this evaporated over the ensuing period, which gives this wine its remarkable richness and concentration (with a Baumé reading of 7.3).
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Founded in 1820, the Graham Port house was purchased by the Symingtons in 1970, so these two wines were some of the first made my members of the family. (Vintage Port enthusiasts will recall that the late James Symington was responsible for making the Graham’s 1970, which is consistently one of the best Vintage Ports from the second half of the 20th century). Based on Quinta dos Malvedos, which was acquired by the Graham family in 1890, Graham’s now draws on wines from four other quintas (Tua, Lages, Vila Velha, and Vale de Malhadas).
Graham’s 40 Year Old
This exquisite 40-year-old tawny offers a pale brick-red color, touched by an amber rim that glints with golden-green hues. The bouquet is effusive, carrying notes of Brazil nuts and luscious dried fruits, creating an inviting spicy lift. Every sip is seamless and resolute from start to finish, trailing into an oh-so-delicate, beautifully crafted finale. Unlike some overly sweet-aged tawnies, this one boasts an ideal equilibrium at 5.4 Baumé, demonstrating unmatched balance and elegance. | 98
Graham’s 50 Year Old
Stepping up in depth and complexity, this 50-year-old variant presents a remarkable color spectrum from amber-red to walnut brown at its heart, fringed by a broad amber-tawny rim with a hint of characteristic green. The aromatics captivate with notes of blossom, dried fruit, and butterscotch, hinting at the exquisite aging process. With a rich, creamy texture on the palate, this wine exhibits an unexpected freshness. A touch of leather and spices like nutmeg and cinnamon add a layer of complexity mid-palate. The harmonious finish is endlessly graceful, making its lasting impression with both finesse and profound delicacy. This is a wine that not only impresses with its richness and textural depth but also with the finesse and harmony it maintains throughout. | 100