Anne Krebiehl MW explores the newest Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage alongside two additional older Grand Vintage Collection wines from years noted for their dramatic climates.
The release pattern for Moët & Chandon Vintage includes three selections: the most recent Grand Vintage—this period a 2016 Grand Vintage available in both white and rosé—and two older vintages, specifically the Grand Vintage Collection 2009 and 2000. These latter selections, although initially the same blend, have enjoyed prolonged aging under cork, offering a matured perspective, similar to the characteristics found in the 2016 vintage.
Describing these selections from 2000, 2009, and 2016 as originating from “three turbulent years,” which narrate a “story of elevation,” Moët’s cellar master Benoît Gouez elaborated on 2016’s season in Champagne as a return to traditional challenges after 2015’s severe drought. The year began with a mild winter, followed by a wet spring that brought frost, particularly affecting the Aube region where almost half of the crop was lost. Subsequent pressures from mildew further reduced yields by about 15%. Summer saw the return of sunshine accompanied by some drought occurrences; grapes suffered sunburn and some ‘coulure’, leading to further loss. Despite these difficulties, the weather eventually improved, yielding a clean and relatively low-alcohol harvest. Remarkably harvested between 9.5% and 10% potential alcohol levels across the varieties of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier, the harvest commenced on September 17. Notably, the late harvest schedule featured Chardonnay being picked after the Pinot Noir and Meunier, a sequence Gouez described as atypical.
Gouez also emphasized the importance of achieving at least 9.5% potential alcohol to ensure a superior vintage. He pointed out that among the top 30 vintages, 24 had a minimum of 9.5% potential alcohol at harvest. He also appreciated the “good acidity levels of 7–7.5g/l in the musts” (measured as sulfuric acid), which is equivalent to 10.5–11.25g/l as tartaric acid. Gouez remarked on the beneficial effect of spring rain, which provided the grapes with ample nitrogen, facilitating trouble-free fermentation.
Gouez highlighted changes made in 2016, specifically the increased use of Chardonnay in the final blend, making up 48%, complemented by 34% Pinot Noir and 18% Meunier. He questioned, “Why?” and suggested it might be due to the vibrant, citrusy characteristics of the Chardonnay, harvested after the Pinot Noir and Meunier.
Describing the 2016 growing season as challenging yet manageable with regards to harvest, fermentations, and blending, Gouez applauded the resilience of Champagne. He candidly assessed the 2016 vintage as producing good, balanced, and easy-to-drink Champagnes, reflecting a sense of peace and serenity despite the climatic challenges. The white wines exhibited a fruity, smooth character with noticeable autolytic flavors. Gouez believed in allowing room for autolysis, especially in less fruity wines, describing the serene and delicate fruitiness of the 2016 vintage. He praised the readiness of the wines for consumption, especially the rosé, which he found seductive and scented, ranking it as the year’s standout. Further, he noted that since 2002, all vintage wines from 2016 received a dosage of just 5g/l when disgorged in January 2024.
Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2016
The aroma is rich and inviting, characterized by scents of yellow apple, apple blossom, golden mirabelle, and the fragrance of fresh, just-baked sponge cake topped with a hint of salt. These fruit notes persist on the palate, mingling with a refreshing vibrancy. Supported by the rich, cakey texture and a noticeable chalky quality, the flavors unfold elegantly. As the wine remains in the mouth, a hint of citrus pith emerges along with a profound fresh sensation. This delicate wine glides with a continuous core of brisk, silky freshness, embellished by a subtle, intriguing trace of umami. | 92
Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2016 Rosé
“This time, there is a stronger influence of Pinot,” stated Gouez. It features a composition of 43% Pinot Noir, divided into 30% white base wine and 13% red wine from Aÿ, Mareuil, and Bouzy, 42% Chardonnay, and 15% Meunier.
The aroma of the copper-colored wine is intensely expressive, suggesting umeshu plum along with distinct notes of red grapefruit and mulberry right from the first whiff. Additional inhalation adds layers of hibiscus and rosehip teas. On the palate, subtle hints of white truffle and smokiness emerge, diving into a delightfully tart core of red grapefruit and succulent plum, complemented by hints of rosehip tea. This complex blend concludes with a soft buttery saltiness and ends on a note of crisp freshness. | 93
Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection 2009
This late-disgorged Vintage, matured for 14 years under cork and agrafe, comprises 50% Pinot Noir, 36% Chardonnay, and 14% Meunier. It was disgorged in June 2023, with a dosage of 5g/l.
The scent of the wine reveals maturity; it initially envelops the senses with caramel biscuit, cooling wax, lemon juice, and apricot skin, enriching the bouquet. Additional aeration releases subtly ethereal dried lemon peel hints that merge into the waxiness. The taste follows suit, painting a rich landscape with luscious baked apricot flavors embedded within a robust phenolic structure, swirling with biscuity, wheat-bran notes and zesty lemon pith. The combination offers deep concentration and robust flavor, leading to a long, spicy finish highlighted by a pleasing, fresh bitterness. | 94
Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection 2000
This exceptional Vintage, released after 14 years of aging under cork and agrafe, comprises 50% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir, and 16% Meunier. It was disgorged in 2015 with a dosage of 7g/l.
The wine displays a golden hue and unfolds with aromas of wet chalk, dried shiitake mushrooms, dried corn husks, and lemon, complemented by a subtle touch of honey. The taste profile is marked by a striking saltiness that enhances the dried corn husk notes, transitioning to flavors reminiscent of oyster shells. As it evolves, it reveals layers of white truffle, field mushrooms, and hay, draped in a phenolic veil, though the finish slightly loses sharpness. | 93