A much-anticipated release of a 44-year-old wine lives up to its billing.
By Anthony Rose
Anthony Rose enjoys the latest examples of the meticulous and innovative sparkling winemaking practiced by the Franciacorta estate, including the much-anticipated 1980 Ca’ del Bosco Annamaria Clementi RS.
The first time I came across Ca’ del Bosco’s berry spa was not in fact at Ca’ del Bosco but at Raumland in Germany. Volker Raumland had been so impressed by Ca’ del Bosco’s method of washing the grapes to remove impurities from its freshly picked bunches that he adopted the system himself. It’s no coincidence that Raumland is Germany’s top producer of traditional-method sparkling wines.
The chance to explore the system in person came during a recent trip to Ca’ del Bosco in Franciacorta. As I wandered through the winery, admiring site-specific artworks, including a rhinoceros reminiscent of Damien Hirst’s sculptures by Italian artist Stefano Bombardieri, which loomed over the stainless-steel fermentation tanks, I was introduced to the innovative grape-cleaning method introduced by Maurizio Zanella in 2008.
Since its inception, the selected and chilled grapes undergo a gentle pressing before entering what is affectionately termed a “berry spa.” This process is meticulously designed to minimize sulfur use and wash away any impurities and residues. The grapes undergo four distinct cleaning and drying stages, starting with a prewash in bubbling fresh water at about 61°F (16°C), followed by a mixture of water and citric acid which removes approximately 85% of impurities, and ending with a final rinse in fresh water before being blow-dried in a drying tunnel. This thorough cleaning cycle lasts only three minutes before the grapes move on to pressing.
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Maurizio describes the transformation as akin to a before-and-after in Photoshop, eliminating unwanted elements similar to how excess hair and blemishes would be removed in image editing. Like practices in the food industry, this washing technique helps remove copper, substantially reducing the initial sulfite addition to the juice—from 45mg down to just 15mg. About two-thirds of the must begins fermenting naturally, with the remaining 35% requiring a yeast starter to commence fermentation.
Ca’ del Bosco achieved its first organic certification in 2011 and fully embraced organic practices in 2014 across its 280ha of vineyards. The vines, with an average age of over 20 years, need to be at least 15 years old to be included in any of the eight cuvées. The vineyards have a density of 5,000–10,000 vines per hectare, the higher density reflecting the newer plantings from 2023. The recent additions include Chardonnay and Pinot Noir situated at an altitude of 1,800ft, both planted five years ago. The Santa Teresa and La Torre sectors particularly focus on these varieties, with additional plantings of Erbamat not yet in production.
Each vineyard’s grapes undergo fermentation separately in stainless-steel tanks, except for the vintage and reserva wines which are exclusively fermented in barrels. Post a seven-month aging period, the eight cuvées are blended, followed by extensive lees aging before being bottled without sulfur dioxide addition. The meticulous cellar management and sustainability are crucial for Maurizio, who refers to his production process as the metodo Ca’ del Bosco. Since 2015, all of Ca’ del Bosco’s wines are either Extra Brut or Dosage Zéro, emphasizing the natural balance of ripeness and acidity without needing sugar.
During an impromptu visit to Ca’ del Bosco, I was greeted by Maurizio who showcased several wines including the Cuvée Prestige RS 37, the 2018 Dosage Zéro, and 2015 Annamaria Clementi. An enquiry about the 1980 Annamaria Clementi RS was gently turned down as its debut was scheduled for later in London. Nevertheless, Maurizio later presented this exceptional vintage at Harry’s Bar in Mayfair to a select audience, changing from its original 1979 designation of Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Millesimato to honor his mother, Annamaria Clementi. Maurizio remarked that the 1980 vintage inspired them to advance their understanding of Franciacorta’s aging potential, a concept manifested by storing 6,000 bottles sur pointe for future exploration and sharing.
The exquisite wine is crafted from a delicate mix of 40% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay, and 21% Pinot Blanc, historically grouped under “white Pinot.” These grapes are harvested from seven vineyards in the Canelle area near Ca’ del Bosco. This release saw 6,000 bottles, with half distributed within Italy and the remainder exported to key markets in Switzerland, Japan, the USA, and the UK. Due to an 8% to 9% loss from cork deterioration, roughly 2,700 bottles were actually available for international aficionados. After forty-four years of careful preparation, this exceptional sparkling wine proves that good things come to those who wait.
1980 Ca’ del Bosco Annamaria Clementi RS Franciacorta Riserva
Produced well before the winery’s adoption of modern techniques, the vintage “dirty” Annamaria Clementi, disgorged in the previous August, exhibited no signs of oxidation. In fact, it remains impressively fresh, introducing a mild biscuity aroma. This is followed by a lively, fine bubble mousse that carries through the biscuity autolysis notes and introduces a dry nuttiness, adding to its freshness and complexity. The outstanding fruit quality and smooth texture debunk the myth that unsweetened sparkling wines cannot age gracefully. This wine indeed surpasses its high expectations. | 96
2015 Ca’ del Bosco Annamaria Clementi Franciacorta Riserva
Released in 2023, this vibrant blend comprised of 82% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, and 3% Pinot Blanc, features no dosage and showcases a mid-gold hue. It exudes a fresh and pure aroma, boasting lush stone fruit flavors and a lively, expansive bubble mousse. Extremely tightly textured that it barely registers; a subtle oak spice enhances the complexity, contributing to the wine’s exquisite balance and freshness. It concludes with a slightly savory, tangy, and refined dry taste, indicative of a complex sparkling wine with potential longevity stretching over a decade. | 95
2019 Ca’ del Bosco Vintage Collection Extra Brut Franciacorta
Aged on the lees for 48 months, this composition of 65% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 5% Pinot Blanc, derives from 18 Chardonnay vineyards, seven Pinot Noir, and two Pinot Blanc, all aged over 25 years. The exceptional vintage conditions ensure low yields, enhancing the vivid berry scents and a rich fruit concentration that bursts in the mouth with a lively fizz, leading to a raspberry-flavored fade into a pleasantly tangy, dry finish. | 94
2018 Ca’ del Bosco Dosage Zéro
A composition of 76% Chardonnay, 16% Pinot Noir, and 8% Pinot Blanc that matured four years on the lees and was disgorged in 2022, derives from 26 selected vineyards. Exhibiting a golden tone, it emits a vibrant, fresh scent with a subtle touch of smoky oak. The elegantly textured bubble mousse balances the rich taste of ripe peaches and contributes to the freshness of the fruit, all accentuated by a smoky oak nuance, evolving to a savory and dry conclusion. | 93
Ca’ del Bosco Cuvée Prestige Edizione 37 RS
Disgorged in the summer of 2023 with a base wine from 2012 and 25% reserve wines from 2011 and 2010, this blend comprises 75% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, and 10% Pinot Blanc. The zero-dosage sparkler showcases a deep golden color, exudes a fresh, enticing aroma, a yeasty bready essence, and lush stone-fruit flavors. Its light, chiffon-like texture drifts within a frothy mousse of fine bubbles, concluding with an elegant, dry and refined finish. | 94