The European grape variety known as Listán Prieto, which is called Criolla Chica in Argentina, was officially included in the list of approved quality red grapes by Argentina’s Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura (INV) according to a notice released on 16 August.
It has been added to the ranks of more renowned grapes such as Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Bonarda. These are approved for the production and labeling of quality red wines and can include classifications like Geographical Identification (IG) or Denomination of Origin (DOC). Previously, all Criolla grapes were only approved for crafting rosé wines, preventing the production of lighter red wines under such labeling. This change allows Argentine wineries to develop and export lighter, fresher red wines which are gaining in popularity.
Part of the criolla family, which includes several varieties such as Cereza, Criolla Grande, Pedro Gimenez, various Moscatels, and Torrontés, this pale-skinned, large-berry grape has been grown in Argentina since the 17th century. Found from Quebrada de Humahuaca, a region 2,600 meters above sea level, to the provinces of Catamarca, San Juan, and Mendoza, this variety is valued for its ability to express the uniqueness of its terroir. It is especially appealing to a newer generation of wine consumers who prefer fresher, lighter wines.
Criolla Chica, also known as País in Chile and Mission in California, has seen a notable resurgence in the past decade along with other criolla varieties. This revitalization has been significantly influenced by initiatives like the Cara Sur project, initiated in 2011 by couples Sebastián Zuccardi and Marcela Manini, and Pancho Bugallo and Nuria Año Gargiulo. “After visiting old vineyards globally, we recognized their viticultural diversity,” Bugallo commented. The team began by restoring ancient vines in the Calingasta Valley, producing their first Criolla Chica wine from century-old vines in Barreal in 2014, and now they craft 50,000 bottles annually.
In 2016, Matías Michelini from Passionate Wines discovered an 80-year-old vineyard in the Uco Valley and dedicated himself to preserving this vital cultural legacy. Michelini believes in the importance of retaining heritage and honoring ancestors. “Rescuing old vines that resemble ancient trees is crucial to maintaining our tradition. These wines encapsulate the age-old wisdom of time,” he remarks. Michelini is also collaborating with winemaker Pancho Lavaque to protect historical vineyards in the Calchaquíes Valley and with Bodega El Bayeh in the Quebrada de Humahuaca.
About ten years ago, the Mendoza division of the National Agricultural Technology Institute (INTA) started the revival of the criolla grape varieties. This year marked a significant advancement due to the combined efforts of various wine producers, the INV, and INTA which contributed to new pivotal legislation. “We have been experimenting with Criolla Chica for making still and sparkling wine through various clones,” states Jorge Prieto, a researcher at INTA. “A few months back, certain producers requested records from INV and began collecting more information, which ultimately led to Criolla Chica being included in the IG and DOC regulations.”
The interest in Criolla Chica has been mounting steadily, despite its challenges for winemakers who are used to creating robust red wines and are uncertain how to handle its high tannins without significant color. Yet, for some, these characteristics are what make the grape variety particularly compelling. “Its naturally strong tannic structure is quite fascinating,” mentions Zuccardi. “The grapes might only have a hint of red color, but their tannins contribute significant texture.”
Old Criolla Chica vines in the Calingasta Valley | Courtesy of Cara Sur
Criolla Chica is gaining popularity among both innovative and established wine producers.
New vineyards of Criolla Chica are being planted by pioneers like Cara Sur and Michelini, with others joining the initiative. Bugallo emphasized the importance of preserving these vineyards as they serve as crucial banks of living germplasm for future breeding and research.
Since 2019, Juanfa Suárez of Rocamadre in Paraje Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza, has been producing Criolla Chica aged for six months in previously used French oak barrels. His objective is to unveil the full potential of the grape. ‘This spring, I plan to cultivate Criolla Chica on granite and limestone soils in Altamira to explore its sophisticated and uncharted profiles,’ he stated.
In the Uco Valley, the variety is harvested in Tupungato by Bodega Lagarde, in Los Chacayes by Riccitelli Wines, and in Vista Flores by Cadus. Leading efforts in Eastern Mendoza are Matías Morcos in San Martín and Catena Zapata in Rivadavia. Meanwhile, in the southern region, Bodega Chacho utilizes fruits sourced from San Rafael.
To the north of the country, Tacuil and El Esteco produce Criolla Chica in the Calchaquíes Valley IG. Meanwhile, Bodega El Bayeh (with Matías Michelini consulting) and Bodega Kindgard source grapes from vines owned by local families in Quebrada de Humahuaca.
The new legislation has been published and is accessible on the official bulletin of the Argentine government.