Website: https://www.everflyht.com/
It was a captivating day at Ditchling, West Sussex. Alongside a group of buyers from The Wine Society, I ventured to Everflyht, an innovative English winery. Luke Spalding heads this establishment, renowned for his dedication to regenerative viticulture. His candid sharing of experiences provided deep insights into the regenerative approach, complete with its challenges and successes.
The roots of Everflyht trace back to 2016 when the vineyard initially spanned 2.8 hectares. The vineyard’s owners were inspired during an inadvertent stay in Australia and New Zealand, caused by the Iceland volcano event that halted flights. They ventured into vineyard visits, fuelling their desire to establish their own. Officially established in 2012, they found the apt land in 2015. The vineyard, nestled near Ditchling Beacon with a backdrop of South Downs chalk, contrasts with the Wealden Clay at its base, spanning 10-15 m deep. Despite the challenges of a flat, frost-prone site with drainage issues, it excels, particularly in cultivating Pinot Noir.
Luke Spalding, previously with Ridgeview from 2015 to 2018 under conventional farming methods, started consulting for Everflyht in 2018, the same year he introduced cover crops. He joined Everflyht full time in 2019, moving away from conventional practices. That year marked a significant shift with the cessation of insecticide use and minimal use of organic fertilizer granules. His transformation continued through a scholarship focusing on vineyard floor and canopy management, including a visit to Champagne Lanson’s Green Label estate, where he embraced permaculture techniques.
In 2020, he initiated a transition to organic farming. By 2021, his practices were split equally between organic and conventional methods, and by 2022, organic methods made up 75% of his approach. That year, he applied Mancozeb just once, reflecting on the difficulty of full organic farming in the prevailing conditions. By 2023, he was almost entirely organic, except for three uses of a botryticide. Throughout this period, he also implemented the use of plant nutritional aids. The vineyard reached 7 hectares due to new plantings in 2023, and he refrained from using copper until necessity dictated its use in 2024.
The strategy adopted is more adaptive than strictly formulaic. For instance, in managing the vineyard floor, he applies herbicide once post-emergence to curtail initial weed growth along the vine rows. Additionally, he employs a mowing technique where a side-discharge mechanism redistributes the cuttings beneath the vines, providing both mulch and fertilizer.
He has steered clear of pruning the vines excessively, allowing them to grow naturally. This practice leads to an expansion of the rachis within the bunches, thereby enhancing cluster architecture. As a result, the berries are better distributed within each bunch, significantly reducing the risk of botrytis.
The vineyard utilizes a tunnel sprayer which minimizes spray drift and water consumption while recycling any untargeted spray. Ridgeview was the pioneer in adopting this technology in the UK.
As 2024 approaches, it appears to be a challenging year characterized by considerable seasonal rainfall. Luke compares viticulture to a chess game, highlighting his main concern for the season as botrytis, propelled by abundant dead material from poor flowering. He intends to mitigate botrytis risks through the use of biological blockers and stimulants to bolster protection.
In our conversation about ground management and cover-cropping, Luke emphasized the limitation of having only grass as a vineyard cover, critiquing the singular root zone it offers. He advocates for a diverse cover crop of at least 8 to ideally 12-16 different species, emphasizing the importance of varying root zones to foster moisture absorption during dry spells. These species ought to be planted concurrently to maximize biomass and mutual benefits. He referred to Ian Wilkinson from Cotswold Seeds as a valuable resource on this subject, although he noted that recent weather patterns have complicated the establishment of such crops.
Luke also highlighted the complex nature of managing orchards and vineyards compared to arable farming, which involves an additional layer of complexity.
Discussing statistics, Luke shared that in the UK, the average yield for the past fifteen years stood at 5.8 tonnes per hectare with vineyards typically planting around 4000 vines per hectare. Each vine, spaced at 1.1 meters apart with canopies reaching 1.2 meters high, is capable of ripening 1.5 kg of fruit, assuming 14 cm2 of leaf area per gram of fruit.
He has been delving into the potential of cordons, finding them compatible with grape varieties like Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay. His previous experiments at Ridgeview confirmed, as Luke mentioned, that cordons enhance fruit quality and the vines’ vigor, attributing it to higher carbohydrate reserves that help buds resist frost. A comparative study between two Chardonnay rows—one pruned in guyot and the other in cordon—both sharing the same clone and rootstock, revealed significant differences in vigor. Luke plans to analyze soil changes induced by cordon cultivation, considering the addition of extra buds on the cordon to maintain vine balance, though he cautioned about the risk of bud necrosis if the vine becomes overly vigorous.
During our inspection of a soil pit, we observed an unusually deep, 6-inch O horizon, abundant with organic material possessing good aggregation. Beneath this layer sat Wealden clay followed by a dense, sticky layer of blue sandy clay. Luke intends to plant tap-rooted cover crops to better aerate the clay layer, pointing out that some blocks displayed reduced vigor due to inadequate preparatory deep ripping, causing vine roots to ‘J’ root at the clay barrier.
Additionally, biochar has been incorporated into the plant care regime, with new plants receiving 1000 g of biochar blended with vermicast, applied by hand.
The vineyard tour concluded at a section with colluvial chalk soils, where mustard and radish are effectively used as cover crops. Mustard serves dual roles, both attracting pollinators and acting as a soil fumigant, particularly against nematodes.
Luke is not enthusiastic about organic farming methods, despite essentially using them on his farm. His main concerns are the requirements for tillage and copper use. Regarding regenerative certifications, he believes they should not be linked with organic standards. “If it’s regenerative and organic, I’m not interested,” he states, “because it’s not sustainable.” He explains that anything associated with organic practices is immediately disregarded in their certification process, also emphasizing the importance of on-site audits. According to Luke, Sustainable Wine GB does not perform on-site audits. “We would pass 10 certifications tomorrow. Some would prevent me from being economically sustainable. Others are not well managed,” he comments.
How does Luke measure progress? He evaluates the biomass of cover crops, crop yield, and pruning weights. Every three years, he conducts detailed soil tests that cost £800 each. Additionally, he performs sap analysis on the vines four times annually, costing £15 each session. The first analysis is done at the eight leaf stage to identify and correct deficiencies early. Subsequent analyses occur pre-flowering, post-flowering, and at veraison.
Has Luke made any mistakes? “I don’t think I was brave enough when we started,” he confesses, believing it has affected their current standing. He also acknowledges errors during his involvement in establishing the vineyard at Tillingham with Ben Walgate. They initiated a cover crop immediately, which adversely affected vine development. In contrast, at Everflyht, cover crops were introduced in the second year, which also posed challenges for the vines. “In the UK a 5% vine loss is normal during establishment,” he notes. “In organic/regenerative farming, there’s a 15% loss, and it takes 4-5 years before you see a harvest.”
While all wines are produced at Hambledon, they own all necessary equipment, including barrels, clay vessels, and tanks. Recently, they began utilizing puncheons and clay vessels of 500 liters. Luke now prefers fermenting in oak and clay over steel, citing that it significantly enhances the fruit quality due to 100% malolactic fermentation. “It really opens up the fruit quality,” adds Luke.
Everflyht spans 10 hectares, out of which 7 hectares are dedicated to vineyards while the remaining 3 hectares focus on fostering biodiversity. Originally, the grape composition consisted of 45% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, with the remaining 10% being Pinot Meunier. Recent additions have diversified this mix to 30% of each primary Champagne grape followed by 4% Pinot Gris, 4% Gamay, and 2% Pinot Precoce. Luke contemplates the possibility of producing still wines and suggests, “I think Pinot Gris is the future grape for the UK.” Currently, Everflyht cultivates 0.5 hectares of Pinot Gris, contributing to the 25 hectares present across the UK.
The annual wine production at Everflyht is about 17,000 bottles, which is projected to increase to between 40,000 and 50,000 bottles due to the new plantings.
Everflyht Brut MV England
The forthcoming release, identified as edition 4, has 2020 as its base year and includes a 2 g/l dosage. It is predominantly made from Chardonnay. In 2018, 6 tons of harvest were devoted entirely to a reserve wine, which has become a perpetual reserve. This upcoming edition features 5% of this reserve wine, characterized by its lively and bright nature with excellent acidity and tension. Its flavor profile includes pear, citrus, and subtle dried herb notes, presenting a zesty, linear, and precise experience. It also possesses depth and structure, scoring 92/100.
Everflyht Late Release Edition No 1 NV England
This version, with a base year of 2019, matured an extra 18 months and contains 20% reserve wine. Dominated by Pinot, it has a 6 g/l dosage. The aromatics are concentrated, displaying pear, peach, and light toasty cues. The palate echoes this concentration, adding richness with some cherry elements and a hint of pithiness. The wine is bold and intense, offering abundant flavor complemented by pleasant acidity and considerable intensity.
Everflyht Rosé de Saignée 2019 England
For Luke Spalding, a rosé de saignée must be in contact with skins for at least 6 hours. Composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Pinot Meunier, this particular batch underwent 6 hours of skin contact and aged 2 years sealed with a cork. It features a dosage of 6 g/l and a limited production of 2000 bottles which typically sells out fast. The wine exudes delightful aromas of cherry, herbs, and a sappy green note alongside stewed plum. It boasts savory qualities with structural integrity, offering a substantial weight and pinpoint accuracy, complemented by a touch of creaminess. It concludes with profound depth, well-rounded balance, complexity, and final notes of negroni and rhubarb. Rated 94/100.
Everflyht Rosé de Saignée 2020 England
This vintage experienced 20 hours of skin contact and matured for 8 months under cork. With a dosage of just 1 g/l, the composition stands at 66% Pinot Noir and 34% Pinot Meunier. The wine showcases a vibrant color paired with bright, mature fruit flavors such as strawberry and cherry. It offers a pleasing texture and fruity profile accented by hints of negroni and sappy green nuances. This version combines richness with a slight tension, creating an enjoyable experience. Rated 93/100.
Everflyht Blanc de Noirs 2020 England
Made using 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier, with 30% of the batch fermented in oak, this wine has a dosage of 6 g/l and production capped at 2400 bottles, slated for a November release. It presents a fresh and focused profile featuring bright cherry and lemon, displaying marked concentration and intensity. The taste progresses into tart lemony fruit enlivened by a nice spiciness and concludes with a textured finish. This juicy and expressive offering demonstrates richness while maintaining a good acidic backbone. Rated 93/100.