Website: https://www.danburyridge.com/
Danbury Ridge has quickly become known as the top producer of still wines in the UK. Located in the promising Crouch Valley in Essex, their wines had impressed me greatly. My visit, accompanied by consultant John Atkinson and winemaker Liam Idzikowski on a rainy Sunday afternoon, was filled with excitement. It was a delightful experience to also have a group from Château Mercian in Japan, a familiar winery, join us. The visit included a tour of the vineyard amidst intermittent showers, an insightful look into their winery, and concluded with a thorough tasting session that extended into dinner, featuring some single blind tastings that showcased Danbury wines alongside prestigious others.
The Crouch Valley is garnering attention for several reasons. Primarily, it’s a warm and dry section of southern England, receiving about 450 mm of rainfall annually, which raises concerns about dry-growing grapes. However, a low evaporation rate here is beneficial. Additionally, the absence of frost, conducive heat summation of 1150 GDDs (similar to Burgundy in the 1980s and 1990s), and infrequent issues with Botrytis makes the harvest season less stressful, according to John.
Danbury Ridge is owned by the Bunker family, consisting of Mike and Heather and their children, Jeanine and Sophie. Mike Bunker, founder of Global Asset Management, capitalized on opportunities in Hong Kong before returning to Essex. Initially, he purchased land and built a home in 1988; however, by 2014, the compelling suggestion to cultivate a vineyard there was adopted.
Initially planted in 2014, the area now known as the Octagon Block marked the Bunkers’ entry into grape cultivation. Their ambitions pivoted after sampling a striking wine crafted from their first harvest. In 2016, the noted winemaker Liam Idzikowski purchased Pinot Noir from the Bunkers for use at Lyme Bay, transitioning the intended rosé grapes into a still Pinot Noir due to their exceptional quality. This wine dramatically shifted the Bunkers’ perceptions of their vineyard’s potential, leading to the establishment of Danbury Ridge. This venture aimed to produce premium still wines previously unseen in the UK, with Liam Idzikowski at the helm of wine production. The inaugural vintage emerged in 2018, produced at Lyme Bay, while by 2019, a purpose-built winery, conceived by Liam, was operational.
John notes that viticulture in the Crouch Valley demands keen attention to vine vigor. Despite this challenge, with the right adjustment and dedication, successful cultivation is achievable, even though soil conditions can greatly vary even across small distances.
The enterprise has expanded to include four vineyards, with additional plantings planned. The earliest, the Octagon Block, has vines installed in phases since 2017. Spanning five hectares, this vineyard features diverse soil compositions ranging from pure London clay to a thick layer of gravelly loam.
Adjacent is the Polo Vineyard, featuring a top layer of shallow loam followed by free-draining layers of sand and gravel, reaching a depth of 11 metres across 1.6 hectares.
The third estate vineyard, known as the Sleipnir Block, consists of loamy soil combined with London clay and chalky clay till, spreading across 5 hectares. It was established in 2017.
In Purleigh resides the Spar Hill vineyard, predominantly covered with London clay. Originally, Chardonnay was sourced from this 7.4-hectare site for three years before its acquisition in 2023.
A new parcel of farmland was acquired near Canewdon in Spring 2023, chosen primarily for its quality clay soils. The area spans 6 hectares, though establishing vines here has proven difficult, with the initial planting attempt proving unsuccessful.
John Atkinson has developed a keen interest in clay. “I had some knowledge about clay,” he mentions, but he really dove deep during the 2020 growing season, which was notably wet right before the harvest. “There was 100 mm of rain one Saturday, three weeks prior to harvest.” Despite expecting diluted grape sugars due to the rain, he observed the opposite as the grapes matured. “Surprisingly, the sugars had increased,” he shares, leading him to research smectite clay and London clay intensely.
The discussion then shifts to the intricacies of various clays. The mineral makeup of clay is crucial because it determines how the clay behaves. Kaolinite clay, known for its stability in moisture, is ideal for pottery and bricks. In contrast, illite and smectite clays expand and contract with moisture changes, presenting fascinating implications for grape-growing, particularly the highly reactive smectite clay. “It’s complex, though,” he notes, “because clays typically blend and pure forms are rare.” However, his exploration revealed significant deposits of smectite clay with remarkable properties relevant to viticulture. “Establishing vineyards on smectite clay is challenging due to the large cracks it forms,” he adds. “It requires patience, but the results justify the effort.”
John points out that both illite and smectite clays from the London area are excellent for cultivating Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, respectively. “There are selected sites within a viable zone,” John suggests, talking about the Crouch Valley, “About 500 acres here are particularly exceptional for planting.”
John emphasizes the advantages of clay for vine growing, especially how it manages water. “The level of suction necessary to drain these clays is remarkable,” he states, which induces stress in the vines, beneficial for the grapes’ development. He notes that illite clay, in particular, makes water extraction tougher. “Managing water and nutrient stress is key,” John remarks, underlining that a certain level of nitrogen stress is beneficial, especially for Pinot Noir over Chardonnay.
We visited the winery designed by Liam. Despite being above ground, it maintains consistent temperatures—9 C in winter and 17 C in summer. The capacity of around 10-12,000 cases annually will remain unchanged, balancing well with the 35-hectare vineyard size. John believes this is optimum.
A new venture is their forthcoming traditional method sparkling wine. Unique in approach, they concentrate on enhancing the base wine’s character rather than lengthy lees aging. “English wines evolve more slowly in the bottle compared to those from Champagne,” explains Liam. Their process involves aging base wines in barrels and maintaining a perpetual reserve that started in 2018. “Chalk brings elegance, but our clay doesn’t yield minerality or salinity, creating a risk of coarseness in sparkling wines,” he notes. Liam aims for a distinctive product that transcends mere appeal: “It’s about crafting a still wine with effervescence.” He admires innovators like Selosse and Ulysses-Collin from Champagne, describing his method as “balancing oxidative and reductive states.”
John has invested significant time in perfecting the dosage. “The liqueur we use is notably complex,” he states. A high-sugar (500 g/liter) Chardonnay aged in new oak develops a rich Pedro Ximenex sherry character after two years, contributing tannins essential for achieving a desired 5 g/liter dosage.
The inaugural blend consists of 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and 10% Pinot Meunier. Predominantly based on the 2019 vintage (60%), it incorporates 40% from their 2018-2020 perpetual reserves, and was bottled in August 2021.
Danbury Ridge Brut NV
This sparkling wine displays a lively and firm composition, blending lemon and cherry flavors with subtle nutty undertones. It presents a mature complexity and precise balance, highlighted by a saline hint in the finale. Notes of orange peel enhance the bright and vivid character. Overall rating: 94/100.
Danbury Ridge Pinot Noir 2020
Harvested in an interesting year marked by late rains, this wine reflects the unique adaptability of the clay-rich soils, maintaining ripeness rather than diluting. It exudes a delightful bouquet of cherry and blackberry, enriched by an earthy mix of autumn leaves and potpourri. The profile is well-structured with fine tannins, high acidity, and nuanced with hints reminiscent of Piemonte, characterized by a deep fruit core surrounded by spicy, savory notes. The finale is impressively enduring. Score: 95/100.
Danbury Ridge Pinot Noir 2021
In a notably challenging year, this variant stands out with its exceptional aromatic qualities, brimming with fresh floral tones and red fruits like cherries and redcurrants, enhanced by a fine spice blend. The palate enjoys a silky texture from red cherry and plum fruits intertwined with savory elements, finishing elegantly with a lingering spice-infused taper. Rated: 94/100.
Danbury Ridge Pinot Noir 2022
Recently bottled, this wine originates from a warm year with favorable growing conditions, albeit with necessary vineyard irrigation despite late seasonal rains. It showcases a robust and dense structure, featuring striking black cherry and raspberry notes. The wine’s bold and structured nature promises great potential for aging, promising to thrive and evolve beautifully over time. Evaluation: 95/100.
Danbury Ridge Octagon Block Pinot Noir 2022
Characterized by its robust and vibrant profile, this wine offers delightful spicy aromas accompanied by pronounced cherry and raspberry flavors. Its tenacious structure is complemented by underlying notes of tar and spice, while brisk acidity adds freshness. An exceptional wine, scoring 96/100.
Danbury Ridge Octagon Block Chardonnay 2020
Matured for 18 months in barrels, this Chardonnay is both complex and robust. It layers bold flavors of pear and peach alongside subtle pineapple notes and robust spicy undertones. Featuring a distinct citrus character, concentrated essence, and a refined, toasty, spicy finish, it is intensely delightful with a lingering spicy aftertaste. Rated 94/100.
Danbury Ridge Chardonnay 2021
This wine is highly concentrated, imbued with intricate spicy nuances and a hint of elegant reduction. Expressive and vivacious, its citrus vibrancy is supported by a mineral-driven energy, focus, and purity. With a score of 94/100, it exhibits both excellence and intensity.
Danbury Ridge Octagon Block Chardonnay 2022
Skipping its 2021 production to benefit the estate, this rendition comes back strong with intense concentration and substantial weight. It features ripe pear, citrus, and peach, enriched by a fine spicy touch and an exemplary acidic backbone. Marked by deep purity and striking depth, it also presents crystalline acidity towards the finish, scoring 95/100.