Website: https://stratuswines.com/
Stratus is a significant winery in Niagara, experiencing a period of growth and improvement recently, enhancing their wines in the process.
I had the opportunity to meet with winemaker Dean Stoyka, who is making impressive strides both in the vineyard and the winery. Our tour of the vineyard revealed how well-maintained it was.
The winery manages 75 acres with 16 different grape varieties across 44 blocks. This diversity is a testament to the complex nature of their site, featuring six types of soil, all originating from glacial till, with the initial planting dating back to 2001.
In the vineyard, an under-vine cover crop trial was being conducted, focusing on the use of crimson clover in its second year, compared to under-vine tillage. “This year we utilized a mechanical seeder, the same device we use for manure distribution,” Dean mentioned. He was referring to the Cabernet Franc. “We dispersed the seeds around the third week of April,” he remarked, “which turned out to be about three weeks too late.” They employ a clemens knife for tilling, equipped with a seeder on the back, designed exclusively to disperse seeds beneath the vines. The seed rate utilized, 15 pounds per acre, was considered too low as per the trial outcomes, suggesting an increase to 30-40 pounds per acre. The overall expense for their 75-acre vineyard stands at approximately CA$9000. Dean believes that this investment breaks even by eliminating the need for under-vine weeding and additionally aids in nitrogen fixation.
“The setup is proving to be quite efficient. Some sections are outstanding, though we occasionally face issues with thistles due to our delayed planting,” Dean explained. He plans to start next year’s seeding in the first week of April to develop a dense mat that prevents weed establishment. He also noticed that weeds are beginning to emerge between the rows, specifically between the under-vine and middle rows. To address this, two disc wheels will be added to manage any weeds that sprout in those areas.
During the previous year, they experimented with barley, hairy vetch, crimson clover, and white clover, finding that crimson clover was the most effective. “It forms a good mat and doesn’t get too tall,” Dean observed. The vines tolerate it well, and it contributes to nitrogen fixation being a legume. “With the adjusted seeding rate, we expect about 30 pounds of nitrogen per acre, which is excellent,” he added. However, it’s necessary to reseed the crimson clover annually.
Crop yields were reported as approximately 2.5 tons per acre for Cabernet Franc, 3 tons per acre for Sauvignon Blanc, and 2 tons per acre for Cabernet Sauvignon.
They practice dry farming without the use of irrigation or herbicides, relying solely on copper and sulfur-based plant protectants. Dean mentions a sole exception: Movento is utilized for mealy bug control—a systemic insecticide known for its mild impact and compatibility with sustainable pest management strategies. Additionally, they employ a mating disruption approach to manage berry moths. The copper treatment involves Cueva, utilizing copper octanoate, which Dean acknowledges as highly effective at reduced copper levels.
No animals are used currently, although Dean is exploring options with a company that leases animals, noting the logistical challenges due to the considerable distance from local animal farms in the Niagara region.
Vineyard maintenance includes the recent cutting and renewal of many trunks. A new biochar machine, scheduled to arrive next week, will modernize their biochar production—a practice they’ve implemented since 2015 using traditional methods that involved covering material with straw and soil. This new equipment will also capture methane emissions.
Leaf removal operations employ a Collard machine, which uses air blasts, ideal for their Cabernet Franc vines where the clusters remain exposed for extended periods. This necessitates a delayed timing for mechanical leaf removal. The machine, costing about CA$45,000, enables completion of vineyard leaf removal in five days, compared to the annual budget of $35,000 for manual procedures. The Collard allows for immediate leaf removal post-flowering, enhancing spray effectiveness, wind circulation, and ultimately, fruit ripeness and maturation.
The vine rows are oriented north-south, ensuring that from 11 am to 2 pm—typically the hottest period—fruit is shaded by canopies, promoting uniform ripening. Both sides of the canopy receive sunlight, and since the afternoon temperatures are not excessively hot, both the east and west facing sides experience similar conditions.
Dean explains his approach to tillage as ‘modified minimal till.’ He remarks, “We only till at season’s end using two large shanks, targeting every other row to deeply rip the soil where tractor tires have compacted it after frequent use. Come spring, a quick discing is done just to smoothen the surface. Other than that, the fields are left covered and we allow the mid-row vegetation to grow tall to support beneficial insects. Ideally, we aim to replace the mid-row growth with structured boxwood hedges or similar non-vine plants in the near future.”
“We’re not particularly concerned about weeds,” he continues. “At our level of production, a few weeds don’t really hinder the quality of our wines.”
All standard production now utilizes lightweight bottles that do not exceed 400 grams, reflecting a shift from previously heavier, more lavish bottles. They are also pioneering efforts in bottle re-use. Their White Label PVMT utilizes Canada’s first re-used bottle, featuring a label attached with water-soluble adhesive that is easy to remove yet remains secure in wet conditions, such as in an ice bucket. Each re-use cycle is recorded with a stamp on the bottle.
Stratus Field Blend Ancestral Rosé 2023
All 16 varieties grown on the farm blended together, inspired by a visit to Simplesmente Vinho in Portugal. Effervescent to 2 bars. 13% alcohol. Aromatic and fruity with a yeasty, spicy edge. Tangy and lively on the palate with a sweet edge to the pear, apple and mandarin fruit. Nice weight here with lovely spicy detail, a bit like a saison beer. 90/100
Stratus Chardonnay Unfiltered Bottled With Lees 2021
13.3% alcohol, 320 days in neutral French oak. Slightly cloudy, this Chardonnay offers a lovely textured experience with pear and peach flavors, complemented by grainy notes and some melony richness. Very stylish with a spicy tang on the finish. 92/100
Stratus Chardonnay Amphora 2021
Produced by three different manufacturers. 13.5% alcohol. Fresh and tangy, featuring nice pear notes, a touch of pineapple and lovely focus. It includes some salinity and nice texture, fleshy and bright with vibrant energy to the ripe fruit. 93/100
Stratus White 2021
A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Semillon, with the capability of including up to six varieties. Aged for 271 days in neutral French oak. 13.2% alcohol. Fresh and lively, highlighted by brightness in pear, peach, and apricot flavors. Good energy with nice acidity and a twist of waxy grapefruit on the finish. Very stylish. 93/100
Stratus White 2006
13.5% alcohol. A blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Viognier, Semillon, Riesling, aged 551 days in French oak. Aromas of melon, apricot, and lemons. The palate is rich with flavors of grapefruit, melon, and peach, accompanied by toasty nuances. It is developing intriguingly. The wine is powerful and dense, making a strong impact. 93/100
Stratus Cabernet Franc 2020
14.7% alcohol. Aged for 549 days in French oak, 30% of which was new. The wine is rich, dark, and intense with a spicy oak presence enhancing the ripe blackcurrant notes. There is notable intensity and firm tannins emerge on the finish. It is lively, bright, and possesses both richness and depth. 92/100
Stratus Cabernet Franc Amphora 2020
14.8% alcohol. A ripe and dense wine featuring considerable tannins beneath flavors of sweet black cherry and blackcurrant, finished with a hint of saltiness. It displays purity and brightness, complemented by stony, mineral undercurrents. Lovely. 94/100
Stratus White Label Merlot 2020
Aged 658 days in French oak, of which 12% was new. The wine is concentrated and vivid, presenting flavors of sleek black cherry and blackberry. It is lush and dense on the palate, salty and vivid, with a grippy texture. It combines graininess and deliciousness with nice weight, showing both elegance and power. 94/100
Stratus White Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
They utilized the remaining stock of heavy glass for this batch. It features 14.9% alcohol and has been aged for 801 days in French oak, 40% of which was new. The wine is both potent and rich, boasting a deep concentration of blackcurrant flavors, accented by spicy nuances and robust tannins. The texture is both grippy and powerful, filled with abundant fruit. Rated 95/100.
Stratus White Label Red 2020
This wine contains 14.8% alcohol and incorporates the prime portions from other blends. Following the completion of pressing, the free-run juice was collected, and the remaining liquid was transferred to barrels overnight. A blend of five Bordeaux varietals matured for 676 days in French oak, 26% new. The composition is wonderfully harmonious and balanced, dominated by bold notes of blackcurrant and cherry, well-structured and intense, and indicates a richness with a grainy black fruit presence alongside refinement and ageing potential. Rated 95/100.
Stratus PVMT ‘Field Blend’ 2021
This blend comprises Petit Verdot (58%), Malbec (23%), and Tannat (19%), aged for 611 days in French oak. With an alcohol content of 14.2%, it showcases a fresh and detailed profile with sweet black cherry and blackcurrant tones. The structure is solid, complemented by a lovely chalky texture, adding to the fineness of the wine. Rated 95/100.
Charles Baker Cuvée du Boulanger 2021 Vinemount Ridge
Coming in at 11.3% alcohol, this 100% Riesling wine has a dosage of 5 g/l and was left one year on lees. With a pH of 3.02 and 10.5 g/l TA, it presents an intense limey aroma with a slight fresh toast hint. Its flavor is vibrant and powerful with a remarkable intensity of fruit and sharp acidity, maintaining a fresh and lively profile. Rated 92/100.
Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2020 Vinemount Ridge
11.7% alcohol, pH 2.95, 9.79 g/l TA, 18.5 g/l RS. Vines that are 45 years old, belonging to the 21B clone, contribute to a wine that is textured and nearly dry. It features vibrant flavors of lemon and lime with a subtle melon hint. The wine is remarkably pure and precise, boasting intense fruit flavors along with a lively and bright character. 93/100
Stratus Riesling Icewine 2022 Niagara
13.5% alcohol. Harvested during a fierce 95 km/h wind on the night of December 23, when temperatures first dropped below -8 C. Picking requires special hotline approval. Allowing the grapes to freeze and thaw reduces yield by 50%. Pickers are compensated at $35 per hour. The resulting wine has 10 g/l TA, pH 3.2, and RS 144 g/l. It is a robust wine, balancing sweet and acidic tones with flavors of apricot, pear, peach, and a lemony edge, complemented by a hint of spicy structure. It’s significantly sweet yet less so by about 50 g/l compared to others, offering extraordinary concentration and complexity. 96/100
Older notes:
Stratus Weather Report Chardonnay 2017 Niagara on the Lake, Canada
Exhibits a smooth and rounded profile, enhanced with flavors of ripe pear and peach. It possesses significant depth of flavor with a sweetly fruited mid-palate and abundant generosity of fruit. 89/100
Stratus Chardonnay Unfiltered Bottled With Lees 2017 Niagara on The Lake, Canada
This has lovely mouthfeel and texture with rich pear and spice fruit, and a touch of peachy richness. Very fine grained and quite delicious with some elegance. Such a lovely ripe expression of Chardonnay. 93/100
Stratus Cabernet Franc 2016 Niagara on the Lake, Canada
This is ripe, dense and concentrated, showing lush, spice-framed blackberry and cherry fruit. Rich and more-ish with some grip and spice. Lots of impact here. 91/100
On older report from 2018
Stratus
I’ve visited Stratus Winery multiple times. Known for its modern design, the winery was founded by David Feldberg, the President and CEO of Teknion furniture company, whose father Saul started the Global Furniture Corporation. Stratus is distinctive for its use of gravity flow and geothermal energy and was the first winery in the world to be LEED-certified in 2005.
The vineyard spans 62 acres, segmented into 44 plots growing 16 different grape varieties, located in the Niagara Lakeshore subregion.
The winery’s lead winemaker, JL Groux, sporting a notable beard, comes from the Loire Valley in France. He emphasizes harvesting grapes at their peak of maturity. Typically, about three-quarters of the harvesting occurs in November. Originally, Stratus aimed to craft complex blends, and although the Stratus White and Red remain staples, single varietal wines have been introduced. From what the recent tastings reveal, these late-harvest blends demonstrate significant aging potential.
Stratus Chardonnay 2015
New oak presence at 40%. The wine shows freshness and robust intensity, with a toasty, nutty flair complementing the bright flavors of pear and pineapple, finished with a subtle cedary touch. It presents a fresh yet savory profile. Score: 91/100
Stratus White 2014
Consists of 54% Chardonnay, 35% Sauvignon, 5% Semillon, 5% Viognier, 1% Gewurztraminer, matured without new oak. Presents an uncommon blend: crisp with nuances of fennel alongside citrus and pear flavors, touched by hints of table grape and green tea. Features gentle green traces. 90/100
Stratus White 2007
Incorporates 85% new oak in its aging process. Smooth and rich, offering flavors of tangerine, pear, and apricot. Accented by light spice and subtle toastiness, it has aged elegantly. Exhibits faint green notes and fine toasty essences, still showing vigorous life. 92/100
Stratus Gamay 2015
Contains 13.7% alcohol. Crafted with 15% whole bunch and later aged in old barrels. Characterized by sweet, liqueur-like cherry and berry fruits. Seamless yet possesses a spicy texture on the palate. Dominated by ripe fruits with a lively brightness as a counterpoint. Quite appealing. 91/100
Stratus Red 2014
Features 13% alcohol. Blended from 52% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 2% Syrah, with 34% aged in new oak. Bright, lively, and crunchy, delivering flavors of blackcurrant and raspberry. Textured with grainy, gravelly elements and well-structured acidity. Demonstrates a fresh style with potential for aging. 92/100
Stratus Red 2007
Combination of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 25% Merlot, and 5% Gamay. Utilizing 88% new oak, this wine presents a savoury taste with a subtle gravelly, cedary accent to compliment its plum and berry flavors. It has aged into a refined maturity, with the oak blending seamlessly. Offering a fresh and structured experience. 92/100
Stratus Cabernet Franc 2015
Made with 35% new oak, this wine features mature black cherry and blackberry flavors with a hint of cedary, savoury notes. It strikes a balance in ripeness, displaying a pleasurable warmth and depth. 91/100
Status Decant Cabernet Franc 2015
Prepared with 50% new oak, this wine is robust and concentrated, characterized by spicy oak undertones and deep dark fruits. It is bold and tannic, supported by notable acidity, and delivers a very tannic and intense profile. 90/100
Stratus Botrytis Semillon 2016
Contains 81 g/l sugar. This complex and vibrant wine offers flavors of pineapple, apricot, and lemon. Despite its sweetness, it maintains a balanced profile with a crisp, spicy finish. It boasts good concentration yet remains light and expressive. 92/100
Stratus Riesling Icewine 2017
Containing 125 g/l sugar, this wine offers a balanced and pure taste profile with notes of sweet citrus, pear, and apple fruit. It features delightful acidity and a hint of honey combined with grapey nuances. Although it may not reach the intensity of some other icewines, it is praised for its elegance and purity. Rated 92/100.