In his latest book, Behind the Glass: The Chemical & Sensorial Terroir of Wine Tasting, Chinese author Gus Zhu MW provides an accessible exploration of the complexities behind wine tasting. Drawing on his background as the first Chinese Master of Wine, Zhu offers insights into both the chemical and sensory elements that contribute to our experiences with wine.
The author reminisces about his early days in the world of fine wine during the 1960s and 1970s, highlighting a gap in non-technical literature addressing the relationship between wine’s aromas, flavors, and our sensory perceptions. Zhu’s motivation for writing the book stems from frequent inquiries regarding the science behind wine tasting, which led him to delve into the intricate chemistry and sensory experiences that define wine appreciation.
Zhu’s approach categorizes the discourse into "chemical terroir," reflecting the wine’s chemical composition, and "sensory terroir," which deals with how humans perceive those chemical components. He emphasizes the individuality of wine experiences, noting that the same glass can taste different to different people.
The book is structured into three parts: "Sight," "Palate," and "Smell." Each section follows a consistent method: it introduces concepts, elaborates on them, and then reinforces the material. The chapters cover various topics, including how we perceive color in wine, relationships between basic tastes and wine’s flavor profile, and the complex aromas we can detect.
Zhu effectively discusses the science of smell, explaining that humans can differentiate a trillion types of smells, despite having a limited vocabulary to describe them. He also debunks common misconceptions, such as the notion of "minerality" in tasting notes, arguing that real minerals do not produce smells.
His unique perspective is enriched by his cultural background, particularly when describing umami—extending the conversation beyond traditional Western wine vocabulary. Zhu’s friendly writing style makes complex scientific concepts more digestible for the layperson, ensuring that anyone interested in deepening their understanding of wine can benefit from the text.
The epilogue invites readers to participate in tastings that align with the discussed principles of chemical and sensory terroirs, broadening the interactive learning aspect of the book. Zhu’s inaugural effort manages to successfully illuminate the realm of wine tasting while offering a holistic view tailored for both novices and those more familiar with the subject.
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