In a recent tasting event, the focus was on the diverse and captivating world of Fino and Manzanilla Sherry, celebrated for their craftsmanship and unique character. While the narrative surrounding Sherry often leans toward decline and nostalgia, the panel, which included David Williams, Simon Field MW, and Andrew Jefford, took a more optimistic view, highlighting a vibrant evolution in the region.
Sherry has faced challenges, evidenced by a significant reduction in production—shrinking from approximately 170 million liters in the late 1970s to just 25 million liters in 2022, and vineyard land reduced from 22,000 hectares to 7,000 today. However, the panel felt that this decline has led producers to embrace a "premiumization" process, shifting focus from mass production to smaller, higher-quality wines that appeal to discerning wine drinkers.
The idea of innovation in Sherry is particularly evident in the dry and light styles, Fino and Manzanilla. Two main avenues of exploration have emerged in terms of production: one centered on the internal processes within the bodegas, and another on the reawakening of the region’s vineyards. New wine categories reflecting historical terminologies have also come into prominence, such as en rama, which represents unmediated seasonal expressions, and extra-aged pasadas.
This shift follows a broader trend seen in other wine regions like Rioja, where smaller producers have fought to redefine their identity and status. As a result, there has been a notable return to indigenous grape varieties that had previously diminished, adding exciting dimensions to the Sherry landscape.
During the tasting, the judges noted strong characteristics of both Fino and Manzanilla, with high scores awarded across 25 sampled wines. The panel was particularly impressed with the depth of flavor found in the unfortified wines, hailing them as groundbreaking within the current Spanish wine scene. Among the highlighted wines was the Osborne La Honda Fino en Rama, which stood out for its rich flavors and impressive concentration.
Here are some standout selections from the tasting:
Top Five Fino and Manzanilla Sherry:
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Osborne La Honda Fino en Rama (16% ABV; 50cl)
- Score: 94
- Noted for its rich color and captivating nose of walnut, fig, and bacon rind with impressive concentration.
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Tio Pepe Tres Palmas Fino Jerez de la Frontera (16% ABV; 50cl)
- Score: 94
- Praised for its elegance and balanced mid-palate single notes, coupled with a long finish.
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Barbadillo Manzanilla Pasada Solear en Rama Sanlúcar de Barrameda (15% ABV; 37.5cl)
- Score: 93
- Characterized by its complexity with a dry palate and notes of nuts and sultanas.
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Equipo Navazos La Bota 120 de Manzanilla Pasada (16.5% ABV; 50cl)
- Score: 93
- Recognized for its unique personality, blending aged characteristics with elegant definition.
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Equipo Navazos I Think Manzanilla en Rama (15% ABV; 37.5cl)
- Score: 93
- A lively expression with refreshing notes of sea-foam energy and rich bakery aromas.
Ultimately, the tasting reinforced the notion that Fino and Manzanilla Sherries continue to hold relevance in contemporary wine culture, suggesting a promising future for these exceptional beverages. As the wine community embraces diversity and innovation, there’s hope that Sherry’s next chapter will unfold with lasting appeal.