The vast and previously overlooked region of northeastern Portugal is finally unlocking its immense potential.
By
Simon J Woolf explores the innovative producers of Trás-os-Montes.
“People here don’t want to sell their vineyards,” Frederico Machado notes. “They have faith that their children will eventually come back and wish to work the land.” As we navigate through the desolate highlands of the Planalto Mirandês, he offers a wry smile. “It will never happen.”
Machado is one half of Arribas Wine Company, a unique winemaking venture established in Trás-os-Montes, launched in 2017 alongside his friend Ricardo Alves. The duo first met while pursuing winemaking studies in Vila Real. They make for an intriguing pair. When I first met Fred, he wore John Lennon-style round glasses and showcased a quick, almost Liverpudlian sense of humor. In contrast, Ricardo plays the role of the straight man—often appearing reserved and quiet but illuminating the conversation when a topic piques his interest.
Ricardo hails from the local area, while Fred comes from the western region of Braga, known as part of the Minho and famed for Vinho Verde. Despite their different origins, both share a fervent belief in the untapped potential of Trás-os-Montes. While this sentiment might sound clichéd, it is far from it. Many of their peers in the Portuguese wine industry remain skeptical about the promise of this expansive northeastern region.
Understanding the geography of Trás-os-Montes can be challenging, largely because of the significant differences between the administrative, cultural, and wine-designated areas, some of which overlap with sections of the Douro. The Douro River flows into southeastern Trás-os-Montes and continues into Spain. The administrative region of Trás-os-Montes is extensive, covering over twice the area of the defined Douro region. It is flanked by Vinho Verde to the west, Spain to both the north and east, and the Douro to the south. The eastern section surrounding Miranda do Douro, Mogadouro, and Vimioso stands out culturally, having its distinct language—Mirandese—which gained official recognition from the Portuguese government in 1998. In terms of wine production, only three relatively small “islands” within this territory are granted DOC status, located around Chaves, Valpaços, and the Planalto Mirandês, which stretches along the eastern border with Spain. The rest of Trás-os-Montes falls under the broader designation of IGP (Vinho Regional) Transmontano.
Trás-os-Montes has long been seen as impoverished and lacking development, especially when held against the more rural areas of the Douro Superior or the straightforward agricultural communities found in the Minho. The region is geographically isolated, with historically poor road connections leading to the western coast and a formidable mountain range creating a barrier to the eastern borders with Spain. Its population continues to dwindle, and with limited industry beyond agriculture, this is hardly a place where opportunities arise frequently. Fred, a resident of the village of Bemposta, where the duo operates their cellars, notes that even the nearest ATM requires a 12-mile (20km) round trip to access.
In terms of wine, Trás-os-Montes is primarily known as a bulk-wine region, characterized by a modest number of cooperative cellars and a handful of large producers focusing on sparkling wines or rosés. This region also claims to provide the majority of the grapes used in Sogrape’s Mateus Rosé, which remains one of Portugal’s leading wine exports. According to the Comissão Vitivinícola Regional de Trás-os-Montes, only 85 producers are registered here, managing a total of 11,010 hectares (27,200 acres) of vineyards. Unlike other wine regions in Portugal, Trás-os-Montes doesn’t have its own tasting panel to assess and approve wines; instead, they are sent to the IVDP of the Douro. “Every Trás-os-Montes DOC wine effectively becomes a second-division Douro wine,” remarks Fred.
When I first visited in 2019, I was unaware that Trás-os-Montes’s second-division status had impacted my perspective. I viewed it as an extension of the Douro Superior, assuming it possessed a similarly hot and dry climate. A visit to Quinta de Arcossó, located near the town of Chaves, reinforced my assumption. I sampled rich, concentrated wines marked by high alcohol content and pronounced oak influence. The owner-winemaker, Amilcar Salgado, introduced us to incredible old vineyard sites, where bush vines grew amongst a landscape that resembled a wild desert garden. His dedication to preserving these ancient treasures was commendable, yet the wines did little to clarify the true essence of the region for me.
I was completely mistaken regarding the climate. Trás-os-Montes is known for having the coldest winters in all of Portugal, and it also splits into two distinct areas—the so-called terra fria (cold land) in the northwest, and terra quente (hot land) in the southeast. Even the warmer sections of the region tend to have more evenly spread rainfall and cooler winter temperatures compared to the Douro—a region that is, in contrast, a dry and fiery furnace.
Fred and Ricardo recognized that the granite terrain surrounding the Planalto Mirandês had an intriguing narrative to share, distinct from the Douro narrative. They were inspired to name their endeavor Arribas, which is the Portuguese word for a location just a short distance from the Spanish region of Arribes. Although there isn’t an actual denomination in Trás-os-Montes, Fred explained that the current DOC seemed quite irrelevant to them, making the term Arribas hold much more significance. Their vision also includes the formation of a cross-border growers’ association, and they are actively collaborating with a small group of Spanish growers to establish this partnership.
They faced substantial hurdles when it came to securing their initial vineyards, as the local community regarded them with not only skepticism but also disbelief: Why would anyone be interested in cultivating old vineyards that yield so little? Presently, they manage around 30 distinct parcels spread across six villages. “Now people come to us,” Fred mentions. The plots are usually acquired through long-term leasing agreements, and in many instances, Fred and Ricardo personally oversee the vineyard operations. Many of these parcels are quite old, with bush-trained plants ranging between 80 and 100 years old being the norm.
Given that Trás-os-Montes’s existence substantially hinges on the Douro, one might expect a similar variety of grape types to be prevalent there. However, this is not the case. The prominent Douro red, Touriga Nacional, was never traditionally cultivated in Trás-os-Montes, and Tinta Roriz, known as Tempranillo elsewhere, is also absent. Nevertheless, numerous old vineyards have been uprooted and replaced with these modern varieties. In various northern Portuguese locales, field blends remain the standard, predominantly featuring Tinta Gorda (also known as Juan García in Spain), Tinta Serrana, Bastardo, or Verdelho Vermelho (red Verdelho). Many of the ancient vineyards contain a notable proportion of white grape varieties, including Malvasia Fina, Gouveio (referred to as Verdelho here), Bastardo Branco, and Porto Branco. The Vinho Regional classification allows a variety of international grape types, complicating the understanding of what once characterized the region. Most resources merely present a standard list of Douro varieties alongside Cabernet, Sauvignon, Gewürztraminer, and others.
The vineyards Fred and Ricardo cultivate typically consist of a blend of red and white grape varieties, which is mirrored in their winemaking and bottling processes. It’s reasonable to assume that any wine labeled as tinto contains at least a small quantity of white grapes. Their cellar practices emphasize minimal intervention, aiming to highlight the freshness and character of the vineyard. Maceration times for both red and white wines are kept short, with most wines resting for a year or more in used or neutral oak vessels of various sizes prior to bottling. Sulfur dioxide represents the sole additive used. When I first sampled the Arribas wines in 2021, I was uncertain about my impressions. The Saroto red and white blends felt light and somewhat simplistic, especially considering their backstory. Even the more premium vineyard selections, such as Quilómetro, appeared somewhat lacking in substance.
Two main elements played a significant role here. Firstly, I had a misunderstanding regarding the climate and terroir of Trás-os-Montes—I was anticipating robust, heavy wines. The second aspect was something Ricardo confessed to me in 2022: they had initially bottled and released their wines far too soon. The yield from these old, low-producing vines truly reflects the region. The wines often exhibit a lean, rugged characteristic that requires a year or two in barrel to soften and integrate. Tinta Gorda, in particular, demands careful attention, as it can be overwhelmingly tannic. With some patience, the reds reveal vibrant redcurrant or cranberry flavors, often paired with a silky texture. A Saroto Branco 2018, sitting at 10.5% alcohol, has now reached a delightful stage, featuring delicate hints of tarragon and lime, with a Riesling-like touch of petrol.
Fred and Ricardo operate out of two rather small cellars in Bemposta, but in 2023, they gained access to a more spacious winery located in Vila Chã de Braciosa. Biliplana originated as a failed venture from a pharmacy owner who relocated to the Douro in 2014. They seized the chance to collaborate with additional growers, resulting in separate wine bottlings under the new Biliplana label. The Biliplana 2022 Tinto (actually a 60/40 blend that includes white grapes), which I sampled in February 2024, showcases beautiful berry flavors, a pleasingly round, chalky texture, and appealing herbal notes on the finish. It hails from a vineyard dominated by Bastardo, yet remains light and delicate; Bastardo in the Douro is known for producing high sugar and alcohol levels.
The Biliplana cellar is also serving as additional space for a colleague whom Fred and Ricardo have guided. António Picotês comes from a Sendim-based family that has been making wine for generations. He had started a career as a civil engineer in Porto when tragedy struck—his father passed away unexpectedly from a brain tumor in 2018. “That was the only year that no wine has been made in this cellar,” he reflects, as we taste from the tanks and barrels in the family winery with its high-beamed architecture. António decided he had to rise to the occasion and now crafts wine during his free time. This endeavor is commendable since his family possesses some remarkable old-vine plots, one of which lies just outside their living room. António’s first commercial offerings were from the 2021 vintage. His wines generally possess a bit more ripeness than those of Arribas Wine Company, yet share the same brightness and freshness. A 2022 Palhete (a traditional blend with approximately 80% red and 20% white grapes) left me impressed with its gentle raspberry notes. Piçarrão is his premium selection, uniquely crafted from 100% red grapes. The recently released 2022 boasts wonderfully spicy berry flavors and what Michael Broadbent MW might describe as perfect weight. It is ripe yet not at all overwhelming. Aged in barriques, the oak has melded beautifully. I was particularly captivated by António’s Branco 2021, a blend primarily of Malvasia Fina and Verdelho (also known as Gouveio). With an alcohol content just under 13% ABV, it showcases a silky and inviting texture, offering a sensation of ripeness and richness.
The vineyards surrounding Bemposta possess an almost otherworldly feel, tucked away from main roads and often navigated only by perilously rocky paths. The aging inhabitants seem to embody a state of Zen. They have thrived for a century or more. Fred guides me to a breathtaking location he calls Horatio, named after the similarly aged owner. It is perched on a high plateau that dramatically descends into the steep cliffs bordering the Douro River. Boulders and solitary cherry trees dot the landscape. Further north, in the village of Uva, the terrain appears even more desolate. At an elevation of 1,800 feet (550m), Trás-os-Montes presents its starkest and most arid conditions. The village hosts merely 15 permanent residents, yet there are over 100 houses, many in various stages of decay. Outnumbering the residents—and likely the houses as well—are the pombais: whitewashed, squat stone towers that provide refuge for pigeons, allowing villagers to harvest their droppings for fertilizer and, historically, the birds themselves for food.
Since 2017, the village has welcomed two new residents. Aline Domingues, who grew up in France, chose to return to her father’s ancestral village of Uva to establish her home and her winemaking venture. The name of her brand, Menina d’Uva, which translates to “Girl of the Grape,” perfectly captures her identity and mission. Her partner, Emmanuele, originally from Marche, Italy, came to the area as a volunteer at a local donkey sanctuary and has since become an essential part of the winery. Aline’s family also contributes to her efforts; her uncle and grandfather own vineyards nearby, which she rents along with several other parcels. Additionally, she has planted 2.5ha (6 acres) of vines between 2020 and 2021. Aline operates out of a small stone cellar in the village, producing about 10,000 bottles annually, with plans for a new dedicated cellar as her vines mature.
With a background in microbiology and a master’s degree in fermentation that includes cheese, beer, and wine, Aline’s winemaking philosophy is refreshingly non-dogmatic. She adopts a traditional approach similar to that of her grandfather, eschewing additives, including sulfur. Her wines reflect the rugged, untamed landscape, showcasing a certain warmth while maintaining balance due to careful harvest timing. They are ripe yet feel light and approachable. For those interested in exploring the essence of Tinta Gorda, her Palomba (“Pigeon”) 2021, sourced from Uva, is exemplary, offering flavors of wild forest fruits intertwined with fresh Mediterranean herbs. It has a firm structure and pronounced tannins. Empusa is labeled as a rosé but consists of a blend of both red and white grapes, pressed directly. Meanwhile, her Palhete Ciste 2021 skews the typical proportions for this style, comprising 60% white and 40% red, and presents a more angular profile with crisp red berry notes, a hint of spice, and gripping tannins. Lichien Branco 2021 features a blend primarily of Malvasia and Bastardo Branco (like her other offerings, it’s a field blend) and reveals abundant ripe melon flavors paired with fresh herbs.
Aline, along with Fred, Ricardo, and António, forms a slightly unconventional group in Trás-os-Montes. Residing around the Planalto Mirandês, they revel in a spirit of camaraderie and frequently visit one another’s cellars. However, they are not the only artisan producers in the area. Amilcar Salgato continues to contribute significantly with his work on ancient vineyards near Chaves, although his classic winemaking style does not align with my personal preferences. Further northeast, near Bragança, an IT consultant from PricewaterhouseCoopers has also entered this distinguished circle of winemakers.
Jorge Ortega Afonso is behind Casa do Joa, a boutique winery established in the village of Parada. In 2009, he was inspired to launch the project after observing the destruction of old vineyards and the sale of vineyard land. He pondered, “Why hasn’t anyone created a brand to promote these wines?” He sought to discover whether the wines or the region were to blame and concluded that “the local culture lacks an entrepreneurial spirit; people primarily make wine for their personal enjoyment.”
Afonso now manages 8ha (20 acres) of vineyard, combining both rented and purchased land. His oldest vineyard features vines that are nearly 150 years old. Between 2016 and 2017, he planted new vines but faced restrictions that prevented him from using the traditional gobelet or bush-training methods. Local regulations mandated by the commisão required him to adopt guyot training, which lacks historical significance in the area and has not been proven suitable for the local grape varieties or climate.
When it comes to entrepreneurship, Afonso is certainly not lacking. He has developed appealing branding for his winery and labels, and he has also ventured into producing dried-chestnut flower extract. Inspired by Fernando Paiva from Quinta da Palmarinha, a biodynamic grower in the Minho region, he began experimenting with dried chestnut flowers as an alternative to sulfur usage. This extract has shown some effectiveness in preventing oxidation, although, in this writer’s experience, it does not eliminate mousiness. While Paiva previously worked with whole chestnut flowers that he processed into a powder, Afonso has strategically developed a mass-producible extract for sale.
While I am still skeptical about the practicality of substituting one wine additive for another, Afonso has impressively crafted some convincing wines. He tends to prefer a bit more ripeness and body compared to his peers in the Planalto region. His vineyards feature a rich blend of Bastardo, Mourisco, Alvarhão, Jaen, and Cornifesto grapes. The 2018 Alto do Joa Tinto, which was still in barrel during my visit in 2023, stands out for its exceptional fruit purity and freshness. The 2019 vintage (also in barrel) comes from a notably riper harvest yet retains the same fruit-forward approach and well-balanced oak influence. The Alto do Joa Branco is a skin-fermented or curtimenta style; the 2019 vintage is currently available and showcases wonderful lift and structure. Tasted from barrel, the 2021 vintage promises similar qualities, perhaps with even riper fruit, and it is expected to be bottled using chestnut-flower extract as a substitute for added sulfites.
“Perhaps people have forgotten that we have a treasure here,” Afonso shared, offering a poetic reflection on the ancient vines of Trás-os-Montes: “If the vines could speak, they could recount witnessing the First World War, the Wall Street Crash, the Second World War, and more.” He pondered philosophically, “I will pass away—and they will still remain.” Frederico Machado’s bleak predictions about the future of vine custodianship in Trás-os-Montes resonated in my mind. Nonetheless, there is a dedicated group of individuals committed to preserving and showcasing the heritage of this region in a bottle for the coming decades.