I recently enjoyed a weekend on the stunning Basque coast, arriving in Biarritz where I spent the night. The next day, I took a train to San Sebastián, exploring the area and grabbing some lunch, before heading back to Guethary for another night. The following day, I caught another train to Saint Jean de Luz, where I strolled around and enjoyed a meal, before returning to Biarritz for the afternoon and finally heading home that evening. The itinerary was delightful, with each destination offering its own unique charm. I also had the pleasure of indulging in some great food and drinks along the way. Here’s a brief recap of my trip.
Visit Biarritz and the Basque Country
Biarritz is a fantastic spot to relax. It has a slightly faded glamorous vibe, adorned with grand buildings alongside a few more modern structures. The location is breathtaking, situated right on the coast and known for its surfing culture. There are beautiful paths leading from the cliffs down to the beach, as well as numerous spots where you can enjoy a drink with a view of the sea. I recommend Milwaukee Café, a trendy coffee shop popular with a younger crowd. For dining, I opted for the remarkable Carøe here, a creatively designed and atmospheric restaurant known for its excellent wine list focusing on natural selections.
San Sebastian, officially known as Donostia/San Sebastian, is a destination that captivates those who appreciate fine cuisine. This charming town boasts an impressive number of exquisite dining options that belies its size. Additionally, the scenic views are breathtaking, especially on a pleasant October day when the sunshine dances on the stunning beach. However, being situated on the Basque coast, the area is prone to frequent rains, making sunny days a rarity.
Instead of dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant, I opted for Gerald’s Bar, a fantastic bistro and bar renowned for its delectable dishes and an exceptional wine selection. The wine list features a variety of producers focused on natural methods, alongside esteemed classics.
Reaching San Sebastian from Biarritz is quite manageable, though it may take some time. The journey begins with a ride on the infrequent Bordeaux service that takes you to Hendaye, which is located at the border. From there, you can catch a Spanish train that will take you directly to San Sebastian. This option is both economical and effective, but due to the limited train schedules, it’s important to plan your timings carefully.
https://www.en-pays-basque.fr/en/guethary/
This quaint little village lies along the coastline, positioned just one train stop from Biarritz on the route to the border, right before reaching Saint Jean de Luz. It features unique architecture that embodies classic Basque design, resembling mountain chalets with vibrant red hues. A small harbor and beach are found here, accompanied by numerous bars where one can enjoy a drink while overlooking the sea.
I dined at Café du Fronton located in the town square. It’s a casual spot, but I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the food, and the wine selection included some exquisite options – this place leans towards natural wines.
Saint Jean de Luz and Ciboure are two towns flanking the river along the Basque coast, situated between Biarritz and Hendaye, yet they practically feel like one location. The ambiance is distinctly different from Biarritz, as it has a more active fishing port atmosphere. The development of the town is more restrained, allowing an abundance of Basque-style architecture with its signature Burgundy-red detailing and woodwork to remain intact. Additionally, Saint Jean boasts a beautiful beach.
I enjoyed a meal at La Table de Megumi, a charming little bistro that beautifully blends French and Japanese cuisine, complemented by a delightful wine selection. Although its location in Ciboure might suggest a touristy vibe, the quality of the food is exceptional.
This area is accessible via the train from Bordeaux to Hendaye, making it easy to reach Biarritz if your timing is right. Otherwise, the local buses are dependable, with one conveniently stopping at the airport.