I recently had the opportunity to visit several vineyards in Sweden, primarily located in the southern region of Skåne. Many of these vineyards are situated near the coast, benefiting from the moderating effects of the sea on the climate and the protection from diseases provided by sea breezes. Although the wine industry in Sweden is relatively young with most vineyards established in the last twenty years and less than 200 hectares currently cultivated, it is rapidly expanding, making it an intriguing time to explore the area.
The majority of these vineyards cultivate disease-resistant grape varieties. Solaris is the predominant grape, pivotal to Sweden’s wine production, capable of yielding various wine styles. This variety is particularly robust, equipped with multiple resistance genes against both downy and powdery mildew (Ren3, Ren9, Rpv3.3, Rpv10). Developed in 1975 by Norbert Becker, Solaris is a hybrid of Merzling and Geisenheim 6493, known for its vigorous growth and large leaves. The vineyards also grow other disease-resistant whites such as Phoenix, Muscaris, and Souvignier Gris.
Among the red varieties, Rondo is a favorite. It is an older resistant variety that can sometimes struggle with downy mildew under high disease pressure, especially since the use of copper is prohibited in Sweden, complicating organic farming. Other notable modern varieties include PIWI Cabernet Cortis, Pinot Novo, Cabernet Noir, and Regent.
In addition to these, some vineyards also cultivate classical vinifera varieties like Ortega, Pinot Noir, and Fruhburgunder (Pinot Precoce), which are more challenging to grow but have adapted well in some areas.
One significant hurdle that Swedish vineyards face is the state monopoly on alcohol, which prohibits them from selling wine directly from the vineyard. However, changes are afoot due to successful lobbying, and soon vineyards will be allowed to sell directly to visitors under specific conditions. Purchases will be limited to a maximum of four bottles, and must include an educational component such as a tour or a tasting session.
Kullabergs Vingård Immelen 2022 Sweden
This wine demonstrates sharp clarity, featuring bright notes of pear and apricot alongside a grapey depth. With a multilayered texture and delicate spices, it offers a robust, vivacious experience that’s rich and intricate. Score: 92/100
Kullabergs Vingård Himmelstorp Pinot Nova 2022 Sweden
Originating from vines planted in 2019, this wine exudes a ripe and aromatic profile, marked by sweet berry nuances intertwined with traces of smoky bacon. The palate is lush with concentrated flavors of black cherries and plums, framed by spicy undertones and a whisper of green, adding a fresh vibrancy. Score: 92/100
Flyinge Vingård Stal 2020 Sweden
At 13.5% alcohol and vinified in stainless steel, this wine captivates with aromatic notes of pear and peach, edged by a distinct terpenic, pithy quality. The taste profile is animated and full-bodied, presenting a rich spectrum of pear and peach flavors, ending on a slightly salty note. Score: 92/100
Flyinge Vingård Ambra 2020 Sweden
Exposure to skins for 10 days resulted in a wine that combines clarity with a subtle firmness. The palette is greeted with flavors of orange peel and lime, and a dash of minty vibrance. The composition showcases good acidity and a refreshingly dry taste. A chic and elegant wine, scoring 92/100.
Thora Vineyard Pure 2023 Sweden
Produced in stainless steel tanks, this wine exhibits a lovely texture characterized by nuances of citrus fruit. It’s gently laced with herbal and subtle smoky mineral notes, resulting in well-rounded elegance. Again, it reaches a score of 92/100.
Jesper Friberg Skoksbryn 2023 (tank sample)
A mix of Cabernet Cortis, Rondo, and Solaris. The red varieties underwent a 10-day carbonic maceration, contrasting with the direct press of Solaris grapes. The resultant wine offers a luminous and slightly reductive nose with layers of raspberry and cherry, enlivened by a touch of spice. Its silkiness adds to the expressiveness, scoring it 94/100.
Jesper Friberg Urskog 2023 (tank sample)
This composition features 80% Rondo, treated with carbonic maceration, and 20% Solaris. It’s a vibrant concoction boasting bold notes of blackcurrant and cherry. This supple, well-weighted wine offers freshness and balance, earning a score of 93/100.
Thora Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 Sweden
This wine features 10.3% alcohol with 60% aged in French oak barrels and the remainder in stainless steel. It boasts a full color profile with savory and spicy notes that complement the bright cherry and raspberry flavors. Offering a light body and solid acidity, it presents as dark, tight, and firm with a hint of silkiness, culminating in a dry finish. It shows great potential. 91/100
Kullabergs Vingård Josefinelust ZD 2022 Sweden
This selection is crisp and vibrant, showcasing a wonderful assortment of tart citrus, pear, white peach, and a hint of grape. It excels in fruit purity and maintains a well-integrated acidity. 92/100
Flädie Vingård Aniara Renässans 2023 Sweden
Made from Solaris with 6% Muscaris and processed in stainless steel. It’s ripe and textural with a gripping edge to its delightful fruit profile. Features supple pear and peach flavors, coupled with a touch of cherry and a pleasing bitter note that balances the fruit’s sweetness. It’s quite stylish. 91/100
SWEDISH WINE